The Cost Of An Unsightly Landscape Companion | WI Driftless Area

The cost of a thing is the amount of what I will call life which is required to be exchanged for it, immediately or in the long run.
~Henery David Thoreau

Cyndie and I originally went to Eau Clarie County, WI (near Augusta) to back road Amish Country.  We found it wonderfully picturesque and relaxing; driving around that part of Wisconsin is absolutely great.  Then…BAMB; there it was.  It was 1/2 mile or better in the one direction and likely twice that or more in the other direction from where we sat in the car on a gravel country road.  Right smack dab in the middle of Amish farmsteads among the rolling hills was an enormous conveyor belt, an unsightly landscape companion in an otherwise beautiful Amish Country.

Frac sand conveyor belt – from mine to rail
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mapinside2We had never seen one like this.  It took some examining to conclude its purpose initially.  It became clear as we followed it to the one end where the sand was being extracted.  I read somewhere that a

conveyor was constructed to protect the Amish on these rural roads from big truck traffic.  Could there have been another reason for the conveyor?  I would think that not having to pay truck drivers to move the sand from the mine to the processing plant directly adjacent to the rail line would be a huge savings of wages and benefits.  These mining operations do not always create jobs as they claim.

Sand mining in Wisconsin, the “Sand Rush” as it is being referred to by many, has many residents of this beautiful state concerned.  You don’t have to look too far to see what all the fuss is about.  The Augusta community is one of several in Wisconsin experiencing this boom.

The recent boom in hydrofracking for natural gas and oil has resulted in a little-reported side boom—a sand-rush in western Wisconsin and southeastern Minnesota, where we just happen to have the nation’s richest, most accessible supply of the high-quality silica sand required for fracking operations. Unfortunately, most of that silica sand lies beneath our beautiful wooded hills and fertile farmland, and within agricultural and residential communities, all of which are now being ripped apart by sand mines interests eager to get at the riches below. This open-pit mining is, in many respects, similar to the mountaintop removal going on in Appalachian coal country—except that here, it’s hilltop and farm field removal. The net effect on our landscape, natural resources and communities is quickly becoming devastating.

In the past few months, the sand rush has come to my own rural neighborhood in Dunn County, Wisconsin, which is about an hour east of St. Paul, Minnesota. Like many residents in Dunn County, I’m concerned about the speed and intensity with which frac-sand mining interests are moving into our area. The proposals and applications for mines and related infrastructure are coming in so fast (our region has seen dozens just in the past few months), most small towns have been totally overwhelmed. Organizations trying to map and report all the activity literally cannot keep up with the incoming data.
~Pilar Gerasimo, EcoWatch

I think the last point that Pilar touched on is very disappointing, but not surprising.  Big corporations want to get in, get established and make millions before anyone has the time to figure out what the future may hold.  With this vast expansion of mines – at one point is the market going to become saturated and the industry no long as lucrative?   Even when county boards establish a county-wide moratorium on mine development, local town boards go ahead with exemptions in some cases.  These mining companies are throwing a lot of money around in these mostly small rural communities.  The land for the mine just South of August was purchased for $13.5 million.  An Amish farmer had this to say – “It would be hard to stay a good Christian with that much money.”  I suspect he is right.  In addition to the land, Hi-Crush has spent an additional $34.5 million on equipment, bringing the total cost of that mine and processing facility to $48 million.

If we could sell our experiences for what they cost us, we’d  all be millionaires.
~Abigail  Van Buren

Some Amish express their concerns while others say little as is their way.  In some cases, though, it really doesn’t seem to make a difference how much people voice their concern as the town boards have just passed things along.  If the land owner that stands to make a ton of money is related to someone on the zoning board – what’s the big deal?  What sense does this make?  Is someone getting paid off?  Are the Amish waiting for their turn to be paid?  Of the 24 homes within a half mile of the Augusta mine, 19 are Amish.  I would imagine that if the mine wanted to expand, the Amish would stand to make a significant amount of money.  Are they simply sitting quiet waiting?

payoffThis isn’t the only Amish community in close proximity to frac sand mining. Not all areas have went against the moratorium though, despite the seminar in Colorado for a frac sand industry trade show called “Moratoria Madness: A Look at Wisconsin’s Regulatory Climate.”  This appears to be a guide of sorts for mining companies on how to deal with local communities and get them on-board with their way of thinking.  Cut the local school district a big fat check to gain favor with the town folk.  Interesting.  Host a job fair and have an open house and give away t-shirts are other suggestions.  Why do they have to push all of this through so quickly?  They know sand mining is hard on the environment and potentially puts lives at risk, however, it is boom-time for this sand.  The oil and natural gas fields are hungry for it.  Why else would they have to resort to less-than-honorable endeavors to get things done? Perhaps I have missed something here, but this all seems rather hurried and ridiculous.  I can’t necessarily claim that all of these mining companies are out for a quick buck; maybe some care, but it doesn’t really seem evident in anything that I have read or seen all Spring and Summer long – I have been looking.

Mines are required to file reclamation plans – the what, when and how they will restore the land when they are done mining.  I haven’t seen one that said they would put the hills back.  They will be gone.  Should they have to put the hills back?  As the land owners, isn’t it their right to forever change the lay of their land if they wish?

I understand that the demand is now – hence the urgency, but I don’t think that negates the very valid concerns of many that are so readily dismissed.  The water used in the sand processing is unbelievable   Mines employ high-capacity wells to process/wash sand.  The sand mine not far from where I live uses the same amount of water that the entire city I live in does in a day (pop 16,459).  I believe the figure I read was approximately 1 million gallons.  That seems like an awful lot of water…per day.  The use of chemicals in this process is troubling as well.  I think all of the concern warrants a detailed look at what is possible before something very wrong and irreversible is done.

I’ve heard people argue that gravel mining is no different that mining silaca sand.  There is a big difference; it’s called partial size.  These mines are not always able to extract an optimal size; some plants employ a crusher.  The crushing processes produces this dangerous dust as does handling and transporting it – by truck or conveyor.

SILICA SAND GRAINS are made up of crystalline silica particles. When silica sand grains are broken (fractured) from blasting, abrasion, or crushing, tiny particles of crystalline silica “dust” are produced.  Some of these particles are so small they can’t be seen with the naked eye,  so light-weight  they can stay in the air for a long time and can travel long distances. The technical term for these very small particles is……

RESPIRABLE CRYSTALLINE SILICA. These very tiny, sharp silica particles are small enough to be breathed deep into our lungs.  Once they settle in the lungs, they never dissolve and never leave. Some people call Respirable Crystalline Silica “Silica Dust”.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has determined that Respirable Crystalline Silica is a Carcinogen, or cancer causing substance.  Prolonged or repeated exposure to fine airborne crystalline silica dust may cause severe scarring of the lungs, a disease called silicosis.  Silicosis can develop quickly or over many years, depending upon the amount of silica a person breathes and for how long.

~www.ccc-wis.com

Kbb-underwingAnd if there isn’t enough to consider already with health and ground water concerns – there is an endangered butterfly in harm’s way.  The Karner blue butterfly’s range occupies much of the same area sand does.  This butterfly lives much of its life on wild lupine.

Described in 1944 by the writer and butterfly expert Vladmir Nabokov, the Karner blue was once abundant from Maine to Minnesota. But its population diminished from tens of thousands to hundreds as its habitat disappeared.

The federal government declared the Karner blue an endangered species in 1992 because much of its habitat is gone — except in Wisconsin. Here, lupines are plentiful. A “high probability range” of area deemed at least 50 percent likely to have Karners covers 1.9 million acres and includes parts of 19 counties.  And to kill a Karner blue without a permit violates federal law.  Mining companies can apply for a permit from the Department of Natural Resources to legally destroy Karner blues in its operations.  Huh?

The push-back on halting development and taking a serious look at this is the prospect of jobs.  These sand mining companies roll into town, buy up land and invests millions of dollars.  One area in particular, Barron County, WI, had 11 percent unemployment at one point during the recession   But Since 2010, sand mining companies are making this predominantly rural county’s economic outlook a bit better.  The boom is still too new to calculate the number of jobs gained.  On average, a typical mine may employee 10-20 people, while 40-50 people work at a typical procession plant.  These numbers obviously vary depending on the makeup of the operation (conveyor belts vs. trucks to haul sand).

frac-sand-barnI certainly don’t claim to have any answers to all of these issues.  I just know that there are things going on that do not seem right.  This is happening all over Western Wisconsin and it has hit my front door as well here in Red Wing, Minnesota.  The City of Red Wing had a moratorium on the industry, but it expired yesterday (Oct. 28) and can’t be renewed.  The newly adopted,  Ordinance No. 39, Fourth Series, ordinance amending chapter 11 of the zoning land use regulations, establishes an Open Space Preservation district effectively prohibits resource extraction land use within the City of Red Wing.  I need to review this document further, but it appears the city is all over preventing mining in the area.  I am not clear where Goodhue County is as whole on this issue, so I will have to continue researching.  I believe the perspective area is along Hill Valley Road in Hay Creek Township.

One company that would like to start is Windsor Energy Resources Inc., based in Oklahoma City, which is exploring for oil in the Permian Basin of west Texas. Its Windsor Permian subsidiary last year paid $2.6 million for 155 acres of woods, cornfields and bluffs two miles south of Red Wing near a small housing development and a protected trout stream in hopes of mining it for silica sand.

“We’re disappointed that the county board decided to impose a moratorium but we intend to comply with all the regulations that exist in Goodhue County for the future work that we do,” Chip Krohn, a geologist with the company, told The Associated Press on Wednesday. He said the company believes the county’s existing regulations are “more than sufficient” for the board to decide whether to approve or reject permits.

~CBS Minnesota

The Diamond Bluff (Wisconsin) community just across the river from Red Wing has about lost their battle as far as I can tell.  All of these concerned people cannot be wrong.  I really think this sand business needs to slow down.  I won’t leave you with much wonder as to which side I am on in all this.  I am very much against this industry and using this sand for frac mining for oil and natural gas.  There has to be a different away.  I know the countryside doesn’t exist solely for my photographic and viewing enjoyment either, but I am used to it and would like to see it remain intact – as would countless others.  If you are concerned about frac sand mining and it is being proposed or is happening already in your area – get involved and speak up!  A small few and their pursuit for quick money should not just run all over so many concerns.

It is hard to contend against one’s heart’s desire; for  whatever it wishes to have it buys at the cost of soul.
~Heraclitus

It is easy to sit back and expect that land owners do not sell out to these mining companies.  I imaging it is very different being the land owner faced with the question of farming another 10 years or selling out and retiring.  I must admit, the money would be very attractive.  The thing is, if you don’t sell, your neighbor may and then there you will sit.  You may be unable to sell your land later on after the mining is done.  There is no single and/or easy answer here that works for everyone.  There are some though that have rejected these mining companies and I say good for them, but I cannot fault those that take the money either.  If you are faced with providing for your family, would you not do so?  I think we all would; especially in this economy.

Are we willing to pay a higher price for gas to save our hills,  bluffs and generally beautiful countryside?  Everything in life has a cost and that is what I am talking about here and what everyone has to consider.  What are you willing to pay?

**If you are not familiar with what hydraulic fracturing or “fracking” is or how the silica sand is used, please see these links.  See how many buzz words you can identify and how they over-emphatic how safe and clean these practices are.

Here are a few photos of the beautiful Amish countryside in Eau Claire County, WI along with the sand mining operation in the area.

Dells Mill, Established 1864 | WI Driftless Area

In our recent travels to the Augusta area in Eau Claire County, WI, we found another historic flour and grist mill.  Dells Mill, built in 1864,  is situated on the banks of Bridge Creek just off Hwy 27 North of Augusta. The overshot waterwheel is just for looks as far as I can tell as this mill was turbine powered in its day.

The number of mills in Wisconsin [& Minnesota] grew tremendously between the mid to late 1800’s.  In 1840 there were 33 flour and grist mills in Wisconsin; by 1880 there were just under 1000.  By 1900 milling was the second largest industry in Wisconsin, second only to lumber.  By 1920, record wheat harvests had taken its toll and depleted the soils ability to produce wheat crops.  Abandoned mills became a common fixture on Wisconsin’s landscape as the industry experienced a steep decline in the region from that point forward.  Several of these mills have been preserved. Dells Mill was converted to a museum in 1968, but still grinds on special occasions.

*Other mill sites in the WI/MN region Pickwick Mill (MN) & Schech’s Mill (MN)

North Dakota Safari | ND Drift Prairie

img_0286There wasn’t any extreme off-roading at all on our trip to North Dakota; there were roads everywhere.  We roamed about freely; pretty much uninhibited by obstacles with the exception of the “bridge out” signs in the middle of nowhere and the occasional pond/lake right in the middle of a road.  The GPS was rather amusing with its informative display of where we were driving.  Often it stated unpaved road or simply – Driving on Road.  You can truly find the middle of nowhere in ND.  I love it.

When traveling through the middle of nowhere don’t be surprised if you encounter a train of machinery blocking your way.  You can see the dust cloud miles away.  That is your hint to pull off and get out of their way.  Harvest time was in full gear when we were there.  The dust from the roads and the picking of corn and beans made for some interesting photos.

know I have used the term “dirt road” rather loosely; to include gravel roads, etc. – anything not paved.  We were actually on dirt roads in ND – black fertile dirt very compacted from grain trucks and other farming machinery.  These field roads were smooth.  In fact, they were often smoother-riding than some of the black top roads.  The weeds on these dirt roads were a bit tall in spots though.  There were several times that we stopped to shoot some wildlife and all you could smell was simmering grasshopper guts and burnt weeds.

There was plenty of wildlife between each town and abandoned place we happened upon.  I very much enjoyed my close encounter with a hawk and just the sheer numbers of them that we saw.  We chased around egrets for a while as well and stumbled upon some baby turkeys.  They are not cute at all – as most baby animals usually are.  Everyone of those puddles held an abundance of waterfowl with no shortage of goose poop.

This was two of the better days we have enjoyed out shooting in a while.  Great locations, weather and of course my company is always wonderful.

Binford Abandoned Farmstead | ND Drift Prairie

After some much-needed rest in Jamestown, we set out on day two of our North Dakota abandoned hunt.  The Jamestown Reservoir provided for some lovely early a.m. scenery as we meandered away from the populated city and into the vast and open country of North Dakota.

north-dakota-reservoir

There were numerous wetlands as we made our way west of the reservoir.  Some of which were not so wet, but extremely or completely dry altogether.  There wasn’t a shortage of wildlife despite these dry conditions.  There were still plenty of areas that still held water along with your typical fowl for this time of year.  Although this is not consider prime pheasant country, I was a bit disappointing that I only saw one the whole time.

With this type of scenery between abandoned farmsteads the miles just fly by.  I have several photos of all the points between here and there of this trip that will soon become our North Dakota Safari post.

We stumbled on this farmstead out in the middle of nowhere near Binford.  This must have been a musical household as there were sheet music strewn about the place.  There was also remnants of a piano at the bottom of a heap of yesteryear.  There was also a skeleton of an acoustic guitar on the second level surround by more sheet music.

 

Ellendale Abandoned Farmstead | ND Drift Prairie

The last farmstead of the day was near Ellendale and the Tatanka Wind Farm.  The timing couldn’t have been more perfect.  The light cast out by the setting sun was fantastic.  All the dust in the air for harvesting corn added a nice effect across the landscape.

This place had some real character; more so around the grounds than in the tiny house.  The tulip wall paper that covered the pink walls wasn’t much of an improvement 🙂  The little Allis Chalmers in between the house and a shed made for an interesting subject to photography as well.  This was a great spot to finish out our day.

Merricout Abandoned Farmstead | ND Drift Prairie

After we explored the Forbes area we headed North towards Merricourt.  This was another location that we found through the GhostsOfNorthDakota.com website.  Merricourt was completely uninhabited.  The only sign of life was the local farmer harvesting corn on the North side of town.  There were several buildings and homes in town – all of which we would have loved to shoot inside and out, if not for the NO TRESPASSING signs everywhere :-/  I can’t blame the owners though, I wouldn’t want my property vandalized.  Seeing very little opportunity here, we moved on.

It wasn’t long until we found another abandoned farmstead West of town.  This farmstead had some really amazing texture in the flaky, pealing paint of the two-story house.  The crown moldings and trim where in surprisingly great condition.  This little gem is in its prime.  A finite moment; a balance between what was and the inevitable decay to come.

Forbes Abandoned Farmstead | ND Drift Prairie

This abandoned farmstead was located just North of Forbes.  This property has several out building along with a house that was partially hidden by trees.  I did see this on the way to Forbes.  Cyndie was too busy surveying the gazetteer to notice this nugget of abandonment.  I wanted to stop, but figured we would on the way back through – our first goal was to get to the school.

It was already 1:00 p.m. when we got to the abandoned school in Forbes.  I wanted to burn some of the harsh mid-day light there and hope for a tamer glow later on at the farm and hopefully other sites.  We spent some time in Forbes shooting the sites.  There were several other locations of interest.  It was 3:45 p.m. by the time we returned to the farmstead and there was still plenty of bright light.  It was a gorgeous day; sadly we spent a fair chuck of the day in the car getting here.  It was all good though as we were in the middle of an abandoned haven of sorts.

Forbes Abandoned School | ND Drift Prairie

I’ve been following Ghosts of North Dakota for a while now and have been eyeing up various locations to photograph.  This site has no shortages, but only seeming endless supply of possible places to shoot.  Cyndie and I had an opportunity recently to go to North Dakota and search for abandoned structures to shoot.  We used this site to pick out a few areas of interest to begin.  We figured that we would wander around from town to town.  We found numerous abandoned homes and farmsteads outside of the various town listed on this site.

Our first stop was Forbes, ND.  This teeny tiny town is situated right on the border of North and South Dakota in Dickey County.  The abandoned school there looked very interesting.  A bright sunny afternoon provided for some great light to photograph this wonderful mess of an abandoned school.  At some point, someone must have played some paint ball in the school or just walked around shooting paint balls everywhere.  It added a titch of interesting color to an otherwise fairly drab interior.

Eau Claire County Amish | WI Driftless Area

It was a beautiful day for a “Sunday Drive.” Our sights were set on Amish country; this time in Wisconsin.

Augusta is two hours nearly straight East of St. Paul/Minneapolis, MN. Amish farmsteads dot the landscape from Augusta in the North to Osseo to the Southwest and Fairchild to the Southeast. This Amish settlement was founded in 1978 and consists of six church districts. Seventy-five percent of Wisconsin’s forty Amish communities are one or two church district.

Augusta is home to the Yoder family. Wisconsin vs. Yoder was particularly significant in regards to Amish educations. The local conflict reached the U.S. Supreme Court which resulted in a landmark 1972 decision which granted Amish and other religious groups the right to remove their children from school upon finishing the eighth grade.

It wasn’t much of a mystery as to where the Amish might be. All you have to do is look for buggy tracks or horse poo on the road. I love driving through Amish country. Their farms are very well-kept along with everything else, including beautiful vegetable and flower gardens. They are a simple and hard-working people. For the most part, they just want to be left alone to live their way.

This settlement had several sawmills and timber processing and furniture making appeared to be their Forté. Their sawmills were not the only thing visible on this rural landscape. There was something else here; something I was not aware of – something that many communities, including the Amish would rather not see at all. Something that is significantly impacting their way of life already. More on that later…

Schech’s Mill, Established 1876 | MN Southeast

Schech’s Mill

The Beaver Creek Valley mill was constructed 1876 by John Blinn. The substantial brick mill is powered by an arrangement of four different water turbines. Master miller Michael Schech, an immigrant from Bavaria, worked at a large mill facility in Minneapolis. Hearing that the Blinn Mill was for sale, Schech and his family jumped at the chance to work for themselves. Schech’s brother operated the mill until the family could relocate to the Beaver Creek Valley.

Geography

Schech’s Mill is located in southeastern Minnesota; situated right next to Beaver Creek Valley State Park.  This section of the country is known as the Driftless Area, a 16,000 square mile area covers portions of Minnesota, Illinois, Iowa and Wisconsin. Noted for its deep river valleys, this area suffers periods of flooding, proving disastrous to stream-side mills.

Flour

I’ve seen all the different kinds of flour in the store, but I guess I never really had given much thought to what the different types where all about.  Ed explained it all, and more, in great detail with demonstrations right before our eyes.  A sample bag of corn meal and flour are provided as part of the tour too.  Cyndie made very tasty cornbread to go with the BBQ ribs we had the following evening – yum yum.  This mill was by far my favorite of the two.  It was a fantastic tour and I highly recommend it to anyone that visits the area.

To say that Schech’s Mill is a hidden treasure is an understatement.  You can feel the history oozing from its walls and milling equipment.  The mill owner/operator, Ed Krugmire, gives an amazing tour.  Having been in his family for 120+ years, he knows every detail about the mill and its history.  It is Minnesota’s only water-powered flour mill still in operation today.

Please visit the Scheck’s Mill website for more details.

DAN TRAUN – Photographer