Tag Archives: National Park

Theodore Roosevelt National Park – North Dakota, The Wild Horses #TRNP

Theodore Roosevelt National Park (TRNP) – The Wild Horses

Viewing and photographing the wild horses was the primary goal of the trip in early October 2018.  We had the good fortune of a prior consultation with Deb Lee Carson before our trip.  Deb has spent a lot of time with the Wild Horses of TRNP.  Having never been to TRNP, her insights were very helpful and greatly appreciated.  TRNP - Wild Horse

It is difficult to explain one’s love for horses, it cannot be explained, it is simply felt.” ~ Deb Lee Carson

The Wild Horses of TRNP are majestic animals to say the least.  Their unbridled beauty roaming free was amazing to witness in person and photograph.  Three days total time in the park didn’t seem near long enough.  I was grateful for the exposure and the time I had with the horses.

[Read about the background and history of horses at TRNP]

The 46000 acre South Unit of TRNP is an incredible backdrop for these beautiful creatures.  All that space does make for a lot of places to roam out of sight.  Tuesday afternoon when we arrived we did not see a single horse.  The next morning we had a dusting of snow and it was cold and windy.  We managed to find a few horses.

Our luck turned around on Thursday.  After photographing sunrise from Badlands Overlook we continued on the loop counter-clockwise and found Grey Ghost grazing by himself.

Grey Ghost

We encountered Flax and his band a few different times on Thursday.  He is a handsome stallion.  Dolly and Kat are two of his mares.

Flax

Dolly

Kat

We saw quite a few more on Thursday just after sunrise.  Lots of horses snoozing in the warm early morning sunlight.

Bad weather in Wyoming brought Deb Lee Carson to Medora late Thursday evening.  She accompanied us in the morning to photograph.  A sunrise opportunity didn’t really present itself, but the light was pretty amazing that Friday morning regardless.  The clear skies and the bright sunlight back-lit the horses and illuminated their surroundings.  What a great end to a terrific photo trip to TRNP.  We saw a nice large group of horses that morning and spend a good amount of time photographing and observing them.

See also Deb Lee Carson Photography fb page

Pleas also check out This Mustang Life and their project: Taking Back The West.

 

 

Theodore Roosevelt National Park – North Dakota, The Wildlife #TRNP

Theodore Roosevelt National Park (TRNP) – The Wildlife

Wildlife – South Unit

Locating wildlife in TRNP – South Unit was challenging the first few days.  All the critters hunkered down in the cool and windy weather.   As the weather improved, so did the wildlife viewing.  We saw a Coyote hunting prairie dogs in the early a.m.; must to dark for a photograph.  We also met a porcupine in the early morning hours crossing the road.  Plenty of Cottontail Rabbits in the early a.m. too.

Bison

Bison roam around all over the place; there are plenty to see throughout the park.  Large herds congregated by the campground by the river on the West side of the park.

Prairie Dogs

Prairie Dogs were plentiful as well.  There are three really large towns right along side the road.  They are fun to watch.

Pronghorns

Pronghorns in park were sparse.  We happened upon two bucks that had just finished a battle.  They were noticeably fatigued and bloody.

Mule Deer

Mule Deer are plentiful.  They were everywhere and ran around like squirrels in the park.  We saw mostly does, but did manage to locate two nice bucks and one spike buck.

Whitetail Deer

The Whitetail Deer were very elusive.  Most of the sightings were along the river by the campground.  We did spot a nice buck by the Jones Creek Trail Head.  I was shooting out the passenger window and the temp different between the vehicle and the outside was significant which softens the image considerably.

ELK

We saw two different bull Elk just outside of Medora the first afternoon when we arrived, but did not stop to photograph.  I was surprised to see them so close to the road, but thought photographing them would be a snap – WRONG.  ELK in the park are very elusive.  We didn’t see a single Elk – cow or bull – until the last morning we were there.  Two full days of exploring the park and not even a glimpse.  When we did manage to find them, they were a good 1/2 mile off on top of a butte.  The light was low and the photos grainy.  I was just happy to see them and hear them.  There were three different bulls bugling at one point; it was pretty fantastic.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park – North Dakota, The Landscape #TRNP

Theodore Roosevelt National Park (TRNP) – The Landscape

Roosevelt first came to the North Dakota badlands to hunt bison in September 1883. During that first short trip, he got his bison and fell in love with the rugged lifestyle and the “perfect freedom” of the West.

Following Theodore Roosevelt’s death in 1919, the Little Missouri Badlands were explored to determine possible park sites. Civilian Conservation Corps camps were established in both of the future park units from 1934 to 1941, and they developed roads and other structures in use today.   President Truman established the Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial Park on April 25, 1947, the only National Memorial Park ever established. In 1978, in addition to boundary adjustments and the establishment of 29,920 acres of the Theodore Roosevelt Wilderness, the park’s designation was changed to Theodore Roosevelt National Park. -wikipedia

I recently had the pleasure of spending 3 nights/4 days in TRNP with two other photog friends.  My goal was to photograph the wild horses in the park as well as capture a sunrise and sunset.  I also wanted to photograph the Elk and Bison in the park.  We accomplished all of that an more.

Sunset along East River Road, South of Wind Canyon Trail Head

Sunrise at Badlands Overlook

We arrived late afternoon on a Tuesday in early October.  It was windy and cold.  Watching the forecast leading up to the trip was interesting to say the least.  Weather, though, can change at any moment; it did.  There was no freezing rain to speak of and only a dusting of snow on the first and last morning we were there – all of which added to the already incredible beauty around us.  The frost on the second morning was epic.  At 19 degrees in the a.m., it stuck around for a long while even after sunrise.

A truly rugged and beautiful landscape awaits you at TRNP.  The vast open expanses of land inspire awe and wonder to those that gaze upon it.  Looking out across the land today it is hard to imagine the forests and swamps that used to be there.  [More on the geologic formations]

TRNP – South Unit

We spent the majority of our time in the South Unit looking for the wild horses.  There was plenty of time between sightings given the weather to take in the scenery.  So much beauty; so many acres.

There are coal veins burning in the park.  They were hard to detect the first few days because of the wind.  Once things calmed down some, the smoke was easy to see.  We first noticed it at sunrise on day 3 when it was 19 degrees.  We didn’t realize what it was until we got closer and could smell it; then we saw exactly where it was coming from.

I saw a smaller coal vein burning pretty close to the road

TRNP – North Unit

We took a short [long] break from the South Unit and headed to the North Unit.  It’s a quick one-hour jaunt one-way through the grasslands.  We did find an old cabin along the road to photography along with two dandy longhorn cattle.  The pronghorn’s were laying in the field until sensed I was stopping – off they ran.

The North Unit landscape if very pretty.  It is much like the South Unit, but seemingly with more trees; especially along the river.  The road is out and back; not a loop like the North Unit.

Cannonballs

The North Unit is home to bizarre cannonball rock formations.

Mineral-rich water deposits minerals as it seeps through porous sediment layers.  The minerals act like glue, binding the sediments together and forming concretions.  Concretions form in many different shapes and sizes.  Those that are spherical are called “cannonballs.”  For now, scientists can only guess why some concretions take on such a spherical shapes.

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GUNNISON RIVER – Gunnison Gorge #Colorado

GUNNISON RIVER

The Gunnison River is formed by the confluence of Taylor and East rivers at Almont in eastern Gunnison County.  It winds through desert canyonlands, where it receives Kannah Creek before it empties out of the Dominguez Canyon into the Colorado in Grand Junction.

The Gunnison River ranges in width from 100 to 1,000 feet and 3 to 50 feet in depth.  The river’s powerful current and many rapids make upstream travel nearly impossible.  It is navigable for small craft throughout its course and by larger boats below the Black Canyon.  Parts of the Black Canyon are non-navigable to any sorts of craft because of giant cataracts.  Navigation through the entire canyon is dangerous and for experienced boaters only.

Through the mid-1800s, the river held various names.  Names included: The Eagle, Eagle Tail, South Fork of the Grand, Grande, and Grand River. Exploration reports and published maps in the 1850s and 1860s most commonly referred to the river as the Grand River. In subsequent years, the river was renamed for U.S. Army Captain John W. Gunnison.  He was one of the Topographic Engineers who was ambushed and killed by Pahvant Utes while mapping a trail west in Utah Territory in 1853. ~wikipedia

The target was to view the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.  We approached from the the north through Crawford on our way to Ouray.  There isn’t a “through-route” to speak of on the north side.  Just south of Crawford Reservoir, Black Canyon Road to the west that will get you to the North Rim area.  We continued on 92 heading south toward the river.  The views were spectacular.

Hermits Rest Picnic Area

Hermits Rest Picnic Area

Our first stop was at Hermits Rest Picnic Area.  From there you can see Morrow Point Reservoir.  There are restrooms here.  Here you will find Hermits Rest Trail down to the edge of the reservoir.  1800 feet down, then 1800 feet back up; approximately 6 miles round trip.  We continued on by car.

Pioneer Lookout Point

There are numerous areas along 92 to pull off.  There are only two areas with restrooms.  The second stop was Pioneer Lookout Point.  Here you can see Curecanti Needle, a 700-ft granite spire.

Curecanti Needle

There are several locations at this stop to take in the magnificent views.  Here you will find Curecanti Creek Trail that descends down to the river edge.  900 feet down, 900 feet up; approximately 4 miles round trip.

Highway 92 was an excellent way to see parts of the Gunnison River.  On a future return trip to the area I hope to visit the Black Canyon of The Gunnison National Park in its entirety.  I would love to visit both the North Rim and South Rim.  The views (seen through Google images) of those two areas of the park look amazing.

Black Canyon of The Gunnison National Park Map

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TRAIL RIDGE ROAD – RMNP – #rockymountains

TRAIL RIDGE ROAD

Trail Ridge Road, Rocky Mountain National Park’s heavily traveled highway to the sky.  It inspired awe before the first motorist ever traveled it. “It is hard to describe what a sensation this new road is going to make,” predicted Horace Albright, director of the National Park Service, in 1931 during the road’s construction. “You will have the whole sweep of the Rockies before you in all directions.” ~National Park Service

We were in Denver for a family reunion in August 2017.  Afterward we set out to visit a few favorite location around Colorado.  Cyndie and I had the privilege once again to visit Rocky Mountain National Park in August 2017.

[Past trip photos: September 2016 RMNP Trip]

One can never tire of the views on this road to the sky.  I revel in every opportunity to spend time peering out over these mountain-scapes. I am grateful for each opportunity to add more photos of this extraordinarily beautiful place to my collection.

Mountain Plants

Forest Canyon Overlook

Lucy Loo

Our amazing little lovable bundle of energy, Lucy, accompanied us on this trip.  She did well with the altitude and all the excitement.  She appeared to be very thrilled with being compared in size to a Marmot.

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COLORADO RIVER – RMNP – #rockymountains

COLORADO RIVER

The mighty Colorado River that carved the Grand Canyon has its headwaters on the west side of the Continental Divide in Rocky Mountain National Park.  The route begins at Grand Lake, western gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park.  It ends on a gravel road through spectacular Gore Canyon.

This scenic byway follows the magnificent Colorado River through Colorado as it begins its journey west through the Grand Canyon and flows to the Pacific.  The byway passes mountain valleys, canyons, lakes, historical ranch lands and high-country communities.

In the Park about 9.5 miles north of Grand Lake, you can get closer to the source by hiking from the Colorado River Headwaters trailhead.  Lulu City, an 1880’s gold mining camp sited along the banks of the Colorado, is now just a green meadow next to a stream in the Park. You can hike or backpack to the site of Lulu City.

We did not make the hike to Lulu City on this trip.  It is definitely on the to do list for a return trip.  The trail is a little over 7 miles round trip with very little elevation gain (350 ft.).  I really enjoy the meadows on the western side of the park.  I have read that there is a good chance of seeing moose in this particular area.

On this particular trip, we used a pull-off alongside the road, and stretched our legs a bit.  An unnamed trail along the Colorado yielded some amazing views.  The bright blue skies and crystal clear water went on endlessly.  The smell of fragrant pines surrounded you.  I could have sat by the river for hours.

 

TRAIL RIDGE ROAD – RMNP – #rockymountains

TRAIL RIDGE ROAD

Trail Ridge Road, Rocky Mountain National Park’s heavily traveled highway to the sky.  It inspired awe before the first motorist ever traveled it. “It is hard to describe what a sensation this new road is going to make,” predicted Horace Albright, director of the National Park Service, in 1931 during the road’s construction. “You will have the whole sweep of the Rockies before you in all directions.” ~National Park Service

From Kawuneeche Visitor Center at the park’s Grand Lake Entrance, Trail Ridge Road follows the North Fork of the Colorado River north through the Kawuneeche Valley. There are several trailheads along this section of the road, notably the Colorado River Trailhead, which is the western terminus of the road segment closed during the winter.

The road crosses the Continental Divide at Milner Pass (elev. 10,758 ft or 3,279 m) and reaches a maximum elevation of 12,183 ft (3,713 m), near Fall River Pass (elev. 11,796 ft or 3,595 m). Near the highest point on the road is another pass, Iceberg Pass (elev. 11,827 ft or 3,605 m).

Trail Ridge Road Map

Trail Ridge is a high flat spur range extending east from the main range of the Rockies between Fall River in the North and the Big Thompson River in the South. The road follows Trail Ridge from the Fall River Pass near Alpine Visitor Center to the Deer Ridge Junction. ~wikipedia

Rocky Mountain National Park

The map below indicate the location of where the photos below were taken.  GPS coordinates from you smart phone photos are very handy when you return from a trip.  You can load your smartphone photos into Lightroom and plot out your whole trip.  This is exactly why I try to take a photo with my phone every time we stop.  Even if there really isn’t anything picturesque…it still plots the course.

Trail Ridge Road Photo Map

We entered RMNP from the east at Estes Park.  The photos will flow in order from east to west; A-H.  I have yet to travel Old Fall River Road (see video below); it’s on my list for the next visit to CO and RMNP.

A – Deer Ridge Junction

Deer Ridge Junction

B – Rainbow Curve Overlook

C – Sundance Creek Overlook

D – Forest Canyon Overlook

E – Mushroom Rocks Area

Mushroom Rocks Area

F – Lava Cliffs Overlook

G – Alpine Visitor Center Overlook

H – Lake Irene

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ALBERTA FALLS – RMNP – #rockymountains

ALBERTA FALLS

Just down the road from Sprague Lake is a short hike and a beautiful waterfall.  At just over eight-tenths of a mile hike in, Alberta Falls is one of the more popular hiking destinations in Rocky Mountain National Park. The scenic 30-foot waterfall thunders down a small gorge on Glacier Creek.  This trail offers hikers an excellent spot to view the waterfall and enjoy the surrounding scenery.

Alberta Falls Map

The waterfall is named after Alberta Sprague.  Alberta was the wife of Abner Sprague, one of the original settlers in the Estes Park area. The Sprague’s began building a homestead in Moraine Park in 1874.  This home eventually become a lodge that was used for hunting, fishing and dude ranching.  The property was sold to James Stead in 1900.  It remained in business as the Stead’s Ranch and Hotel until 1962. In 1910 the Sprague’s built another lodge near the current parking area for Sprague Lake. The National Park Service purchased that property in 1932 and razed it in 1957.

Abner Sprague would go down in Rocky Mountain National Park history once more when he became the first visitor to pay an entrance fee in 1939.

It was a lovely hike to the waterfall in September 2016 in late afternoon.  We were delighted to meet some wildlife along the path as well.  This is such a beautiful place to hike around and explore.

SPRAGUE LAKE – RMNP – #rockymountains

Sprague Lake is a scenic lake in Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), located on the south side of Glacier Creek, about two miles south of the Hollowell turnoff.  The .9 mile walk around the lake features boardwalks and bridges with views of Flattop Mountain and Hallet Peak.  The area is named after Abner Sprague, who started a homestead there in 1874.  The area became part of Rocky Mountain National Park in 1915.

Sprague Lake is a special location in Colorado’s RMNP for my wife and I.  We were married there November 18th 2013.  Marry me in Colorado made the arrangements very easy.  The setting could not have been more perfect.  The weather was surprisingly nice for November.

The following photos are from our visit in September of 2016.  Sprague Lake Loop is a lovely trail to hike around this picturesque location.  The view of the mountains is truly breathtaking.

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South Dakota – Black Hills – Day 5

SD – Black Hills / Custer State Park | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5 | Day 6 | Day 7

Day 5 – the day of mist, rain and dense fog before the expected 6″ of snow fall and subsequent 27 degree morning temp.  We wisely decided to move to a camper cabin before the unseasonably cold and snowy weather moved in.  It was a bit damp and breaking down the tent was not on my to do list at this point.  The cabin was a short distance from our tent site; relocating camp was easily accomplished.  We left the tent up in hopes that mist/rain would subside and breeze would dry things out and headed for Wind Cave National Monument.

Hidden beneath the rolling prairie of the southern Black Hills is one of the world’s longest caves.  Swaying prairie grasses, forested hillsides, and an array of wildlife such as bison, elk, and prairie dogs welcome visitors to one of our country’s oldest national parks and one of its few remaining intact prairies. Secreted beneath is one of the world’s longest caves, Wind Cave. Named for barometric winds at its entrance, this complex labyrinth of passages contains a unique formation – boxwork.

There are a few different cave tours to choose from, we went on the Natural Entrance tour.  It was a lot of stairs, but they are mostly all down.  The elevator that takes you back to the surface is lower in the shaft than the level you entered the cave on.  Here are some iPhone shots on the monument grounds and inside the cave.  Great tour.

It was still very foggy and misting some when we left Wind Cave.  Once back at the campground it was time to take advantage of the break in the mist/rain.  Packing away a wet tent is never any good.  The rain fly was a bit damp, but that is all; it would dry quickly in the cabin.

The day was still young and there was much of the Custer State Park to explore.  We drove up to Mt. Coolidge Fire Tower in a blanket of fog.  There were breaks at times that offered somewhat of a view.  At 6023 ft. I am sure the view is dandy on a clear day.  From there we explored North Lame Johnny Road (CSP4) as we made our way toward the donkeys down by the Buffalo Corrals.  We were a bit disappointed to find no donkeys around especially since we were toting two large bags of carrots.  Perhaps they were driven away by yesterdays stampede.  We headed South on Red Valley Road (CSP6) into Wind Cave National Park where we spotted some Elk at a great distance.  We would have liked to get a bit closer, but that opportunity never arose.  We made a big loop South in Wind Cave Nation Park and came back around North and headed for Custer.  The light was getting low and our stomachs where empty.  [[Custer State Park Map for reference]]

Here are a few shots from Lame Johnny and Red Valley roads.  Beautiful country and a bit of wildlife as well.  Another great day in the hills.