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KILKEE & LOOP HEAD – COUNTY CLARE – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

The road to Kilkee & Loop Head

On our eighth day we awoke again to another delicious Irish Breakfast at Sea Crest Farmhouse.  Angela Morrissey was a wonderful host.  The view from the farmhouse was wide open from its elevated position a short distance inland; Southeast from Quilty on the coast.

Google Maps

Traveling South from Quilty on N67 we crossed the Doonberg River via a stone arch bridge in Doonberg.  This was the first opportunity to stop, get out, and begin to burn some calories from breakfast; a mere 15 minutes from departing our B&B.  Photo opportunities are everywhere in Ireland.  There were a lovely pair of swans a swimming in the river when we arrived.

Kilkee

Kilkee, Loop Head’s main town, is built around a horseshoe bay with a kilometre of golden, blue-flag beach. Because of the Duggerna Reef (locally known as the Pollock Holes) stretching across its mouth, the bay is naturally sheltered from the Atlantic, and Kilkee beach is the safest in Clare.  Read more
www.loophead.ie

Loop Head

Loop Head peninsula, has the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Shannon Estuary on the other, with barely a mile of land saving it from island status. – wikipedia

Bishop’s Island

The 6th century monastic settlement on Bishop’s Island gives the island its name. This unique seastack was separated from the mainland over the last thousand years.

Kilkee Cliffs

Bridges of Ross

The Bridges of Ross are located on the western side of Ross Bay near the village of Kilbaha.  Originally there were 3 sea stacks but only one remains.  You cannot see it from the road; it is a short walk from the car park.  The coastal views are spectacular.

Loop Head Peninsula Time Lapse

Loop Head Peninsula

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CLIFFS OF MOHER – COUNTY CLARE – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

The Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher, as noted by EMGN.com, are as one of the 12 most deadly tourist hot spots on the planet (#7) .  Their claim of no protection to prevent people from going over the edge isn’t completely accurate.  There is fencing now, however there had not been in the past.  The only way you’ll fall over the edge these days is if you are trying to or not being safe and adhering to posted warnings. One does not have to search far to read stories about such tragedy.

Tragedy happens at the Grand Canyon in the USA as well.  There is a book written by Thomas M. Meyers Over The Edge: Death in Grand Canyon, that documents every death in the Grand Canyon breaking down the casualties into categories.  I believe this is the book a friend told me about where it explains some sort of phenomena about becoming so overcome with awe at what you are seeing that you essentially pass out and fall over.  Not something you should do at the Grand Canyon or the Cliffs of Moher.

The Cliffs of Moher are truly a sight to Map of Cliffs of Moher areabehold.  My wife and I experienced plenty of awe that April evening.  With the visitor center closed there were not many people around.  All the tour buses had gone.  There were plenty of cars in the parking lot though and I didn’t even give that a second thought.

I wished I had researched the place better and known the exact spots where photographs are typically taken from.  This isn’t a place where you want to sprint to a place to catch the great light.  We did manage a lengthy hike; first to O’Brian’s Tower (orange), and then back South along Burren Way (red).

O’Brian’s Tower

The Cliffs

We were fortunate to have favorable weather and only a slight breeze.  Burren Way is a paved path around the visitor center and to O’Brian’s Tower, but not out along the cliff.  There is a pretty clear transition point where the path turns to hard packed dirt and/or crushed rock.  this is where you warning become even more prevalent. You are given notice that you are leaving the Cliffs of Moher grounds.  You notified of the extreme danger ahead.

advised of the extreme danger ahead

To offer a sense of scale, you can see a full-grown adult standing on top of the cliffs on the upper right in the image below.  Inconceivable! (*Cliffs of Insanity below)

Cliffs of Moher

*The Princess Bride (1987) (as the filming location for “The Cliffs of Insanity”)

 More photos of the cliffs

The Cliffs of Moher (Irish: Aillte an Mhothair) are located at the southwestern edge of the Burren region in County Clare, Ireland. They rise 120 metres (390 ft) above the Atlantic Ocean at Hag’s Head, and, eight kilometres to the north, reach their maximum height of 214 metres (702 ft) just north of O’Brien’s Tower, which is a round stone tower near the midpoint of the cliffs that was built in 1835 by Sir Cornelius O’Brien.  – wikipedia

If sea cliffs are your thing, I would also recommend a trip to Slieve League.

Extra

Documentary (28 minutes)

Drone Footage

Cliffs of Moher Walk

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ROAD TO CLIFFS OF MOHER – COUNTY CLARE – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

Road to Cliffs of Moher

We had another full day of travel.  After leaving Ballynahinch we drove back through Clifden and checked out the shops.  I was surprised to find Wrangle jeans for sale.  “Rain Ready” the tag read; for €79.95 ($85)!

White Strand

We meandered along the coastline and stopped at White Strand.  Although not far into our journey for the day, it was a great place to stop and stretch your legs; shrug off some of the gluttony from breakfast.   It appeared to be low tide and the vegetation and sand of the beach was ripe for exploration.  The most interesting thing I saw on the beach was the casts of blow lug worms.

Just south of Kilfea on R340 we came across some friendly critters.  Several donkeys were grazing to their heart’s content on tender greens along the roadside.   Photo opportunity!

We did very well with avoiding major cities throughout our travels by sticking to side roads, but there was no going around Galway; no way that wouldn’t add several hours to our travels.  It wasn’t long and we were out along the coast again.  We were, again, hoping for the sunset to cooperate at the Cliffs of Moher.  We arrived in the general vicinity early to look for a B&B as we didn’t make any previous  plans.  We easily found Sea Crest Farmhouse B&B close by and stopped by to take a look.  Satisfied and booked for an evening slumber, we unloaded the car and then departed for our late afternoon/evening adventure.  First up, dinner.

Vaughans Anchor Inn

It was invaluable having portable WiFi at all times.  It was a sinch to read reviews on restaurants.  We chose Vaughans Anchor Inn in Liscannor.  I always looked forward to a pint of Guinness after a long day of traveling.  You can see from the smile on my lovely wife’s face she did as well.  I really enjoyed that Ireland was all about the bread.  We had quite a few different varieties.  My inner-gourmand was very delighted.  The chef brought out a sample of his parsnip puree; it was divine.  Vaughn’s Fish and Chips consisted of Cod in a 9 year old (starter) batter,  Chips steamed then fried in Beef Drippings with Homemade Tartar Sauce and Pea Puree.  Wow!  Heart-healthy eating at its finest 🙂  One of the best fish and chips I experienced on our trip.

Next up…the Cliffs of Moher.

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MWEELREA MOUNTAINS & KILLARY FJORD – COUNTY MAY0/GALWAY – REPUBLIC OR IRELAND ‪#discoverireland‬

Picking up from where I left off on Ireland photos; moving on from Croagh Patrick, we made a pit stop to stretch our legs from physically taxing descent from the holy mountain.  You can easily still see it from this beach head view 15 miles away.

Old Head Beach

oldhead

Louisburgh

A few more miles down the road we decided to stop in Louisburgh for a bit of refreshment at the Front Bar.  We very much enjoyed the quaint feel and colorful building everywhere we traveled.

The drive from Louisburgh to Aasleagh through the Mweelrea Mountains and around Killary Fjord was beautiful.  If I am ever fortunate enough to win the lottery, I will make my way back to Delphi & Delphi Lodge for a week or two of fly fishing. What a magnificent spot this was to stop at for a quick look and some fresh smoked salmon.  It is right off of R335 on the shore of Fin Lough; you cannot miss it.

Mweelrea Mountains

Killary Fjord

The beautiful scenery continued from Aasleagh as we headed South into County Galway to Maam Cross.  Our destination for day 5 was Oughterard, County Galway. We stayed at Corrib View Country House just to the East of Oughterard on Lough Corrib.  This was a beautiful property to wander around on.

Corrib View Country House

The blossoms on the tree in the yard smelled  so wonderful.  You can very clearly hear the sound of all the bees buzzing around.

Bee’s buzzing around the blossoms

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CROAGH PATRICK – COUNTY MAYO – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

The adventure continues

Our destination for the evening after stopping at Glencar Waterfall was Westport town in County Mayo.  This was the only day that I wish we had secured a mobile phone.  *I did send the B&B an email to tell them that we would be running late; they didn’t see it.

When we arrived at Carrabaun House no one was there and it was locked up tight.  After checking every filling station in town, we were able to find a pay phone back at the town centre, however using it was another matter.  The directions and prompts were all on-screen; a screen that was completely scratched and not recognizable.  I met a very nice and severely intoxicated man who had no minutes on his phone, but wanted to sit a wee bit, have a conversation and figure out how to help me.  This day of our trip was Cyndie’s birthday and it was getting late; not sure what else to do I walked into the grocery/liquor store on the corner and asked a cashier if they could dial up the B&B for me.  She did with no hesitation and would not accept any money for her efforts.   Wonderful and helpful people in Ireland.

J.J O’Malleys

After getting settled at back at the B&B, we headed back into Westport for dinner at J.J O’Malleys.  At this point we were both pretty much exhausted and starving.  Not exactly the birthday evening I had planned for Cyndie.  The food was tasty and the pints divine.

2016-04-28 J.J O Malleys-Bar and Restaurant 2 2016-04-28 J.J O Malleys-Bar and Restaurant

We awoke to another gorgeous day in Ireland.  The view from our room was amazing.  We could see our destination right out on the horizon.  Another Traditional Irish Breakfast was in order; then we’d be on our way.

Carrabaun House

*If you are going to travel Ireland via car and stay at B&B’s that you book in advance I would highly recommend stating an arrival time of 7-8 p.m.  If you are early, it usually isn’t a problem.  The only issue you may encounter is if the owners/caretakers do not live at the property.  That was the case here.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick, which overlooks Clew Bay in County Mayo, is considered the holiest mountain in Ireland.  The tradition of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to the present day without interruption. Its religious significance dates back to the time of the pagans, when people are thought to have gathered here to celebrate the beginning of harvest season. – wikipedia

As you can see from the first few thumbnail images, this mountain if massive.  All the photos were taken in order along the accent with the exception of the second to the last two taken on the decent.  This is an amazingly beautiful mountain, but don’t let the that fool you – it’ll bite you if you are not careful any paying attention to the terrain underfoot.  The path and trail were firm in the morning as it was slightly damp.  As the day went on though; with the sunshine and wind, the surface gets dryer and loose.  The path is very rocky; not smooth by any means.

I was not able to make it all the way to the summit.  You can see a bit of green indoor/outdoor carpet in this photo (above) just to the right of trail.  This is where I had to turn around, but not before a lengthy, rest, water and a few photos.  The trail to the summit was steep; I had no doubt I could have made it there, but getting down was more of the concern.  With a bad knee, making it as far as I did was accomplishment enough.  It was a beautiful day in Ireland with perfect weather; we could not of asked for anything more.

I ended up falling on the way back down, bruised my hip, tore up my hand, and cracked a lens hood – no damage to the lens itself or the camera thankfully.  We made it the rest of the way down without further incident.  It is quite a trip with magnificent views.  Allow plenty of time, wear good shoes, go slow and be careful.  You may want to get a walking stick from the visitor center.  We arrived early before it was open and it wasn’t an option unfortunately.

Croagh Patrick is renowned for its Patrician Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit of the mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. The Black Bell of Saint Patrick was a highly venerated relic on Croagh Patrick for many years.

The first stop on the pilgrimage is Saint Patrick’s statue erected in 1928 by Reverend Father Patterson with money he collected in America towards the rebuilding of Saint Mary’s Church in Westport.

Each year, The Reek, as it is colloquially known, attracts about 1 million pilgrims. On ‘Reek Sunday’, the last Sunday in July, over 25,000 pilgrims visit the Reek. At the top, there is a modern chapel where mass is celebrated and confessions are heard. Individuals and groups come from all over the world and include pilgrims, hill climbers, historians, archaeologists and nature lovers.

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GLENCAR LOUGH & WATERFALL – COUNTY LEITRIM ‪#discoverireland

Glencar Lough

Glencar Lough lies in the Glencar Valley, between the Dartry Mountains to the north and the mountain range including Cope’s Mountain to the south. The lake is located about 10 kilometres (6 mi) northeast of Sligo and about 15 km (9 mi) west of Manorhamilton.  It is 2.5 km (1.6 mi) long from west to east and 0.6 km (0.4 mi) wide. The lake has two crannogs (artificial islands): one at the western end near the Drumcliff River outlet and the other at the eastern end near the Diffreen River.

Glencar Waterfall

Glencar Waterfall is located near the lake’s north shore on the Leitrim side.

Map

Glencar Lough is a lovely little lake surrounded by mountains and pastures full of sheep.  Glencar Waterfall is a short hike from the parking lot.  We were running behind schedule and almost drove by; I am glad we didn’t.  The parking area isn’t too far on the main road.  The lush green foliage and the sounds of the river and waterfall make for quite a tranquil spot.  If traveling through the Northern region of the Republic of Ireland this is a worthwhile stop even if it makes you late to your eventual destination for the evening.  More on that in the next post 😉

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MULLAGHMORE HEAD – COUNTY DONEGAL/SLIGO – REPBULIC OF IRELAND ‪#‎discoverireland

County Donegal

A short 6 minutes or so from Donegal town we found Seven-Arch Bridge over the Laghey River in the village of Laghey on our way to Mullaghmore Head.  There are many stone arch bridges in Ireland; this is a fine example of what you will encounter.

This impressive seven arch bridge is one of the more important bridges in the south County Donegal area. It survives in good condition despite some modern works and the infilling of the arch to the south end, and its survival is testament to the quality of the original construction during the eighteenth century. The slightly humpbacked form of this bridge creates an interesting profile, and is indicative of its relatively early date. This utilitarian structure is enhanced by the dressed stone voussoirs and slender ashlar cutwaters. This bridge was apparently built in 1768 and carried the former main Dublin/Sligo to Derry mail coach road, and it is indicated on the Taylor and Skinner Maps of the Roads of Ireland (1777 – 1783) map of the area.

Seven-Arch Bridge

Laghey Village bridge iPhone Ireland 2016-3020

County Sligo

Mullaghmore Head

Another 30 minutes down the road we arrived at Mullaghmore Head.  The views here are impressive.  It was rather calm when we were there, but your imagination didn’t have to run wild to see how the surf batters the coastline.  The layered rock formations along the Wild Atlantic Way are a sight to see.

Ireland D700-3054

Jutting out of Sligo’s northern edge, close to the county’s border with Donegal, the small peninsula of Mullaghmore sits dramatically out into the North Atlantic.

The waters here are not simply photogenic. They have become known for some of the most sought-after waves in surfing. Mullahgmore is notably championed for one big break in particular which Surfing magazine has dubbed “a mutant Irish left”. Surfing is in the blood here. The famous Irish pro-surfer and local Sligo legend, Easkey Britton, was even named after a beach called Easkey, just an hour’s drive further south of Mullaghmore. – wikipedia

Ireland D300-9598-Pano
Classiebawn Castle on Mullaghmore Pennisula

Mullaghmore Head “Tow in Surf Session”

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SLIEVE LEAGUE – COULTY DONEGAL – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND #‎discoverireland

2016-04-28 iPhone Ireland 2016-3003Slieve League

From Donegal Town we traveled to Carrick and on through Teelin to the sixth highest sea cliffs in all of Europe known as Slieve League.  This was an amazing stop during our travels of the 2016-04-28 iPhone Ireland 2016-3019Republic of Ireland.  The River Glen flowing through Carrick was quite picturesque.  Closer to Teelin the river widens as it flows towards the coast; fishing boats rest at low tide along the river banks.

Slieve League is a mountain on the Atlantic coast of County Donegal, Ireland. At 601 metres (1,972 ft), it has some of the highest sea cliffs on the island of Ireland. Although less famous than the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare, Slieve League’s cliffs reach almost three times higher.

The Belfast naturalist Robert Lloyd Praeger wrote in 1939:

A tall mountain of nearly 2000 feet, precipitous on its northern side, has been devoured by the sea till the southern face forms a precipice likewise, descending on this side right into the Atlantic from the long knife-edge which forms the summit. The traverse of this ridge, the “One Man’s Path”, is one of the most remarkable walks to be found in Ireland – not actually dangerous, but needing a good head and careful progress on a stormy day….The northern precipice, which drops 1500 feet into the coomb surrounding the Little Lough Agh, harbours the majority of the alpine plants of Slieve League, the most varied group of alpines to be found anywhere in Donegal.

Map_Slieve LeagueYou can explore Slieve League from two different start points by car.  There is a parking lot just West of Arduns where there is a gate (green dot).  You can walk from here or open the gate and drive in further West to Carrickmacafferty (red dot).

gate_slieve league
Gate @ green dot

I would recommend saving your energy by driving to far parking lot.  There is plenty of trail to explore from there; the views are absolutely magnificent.  It is hard to realize the scale of these cliffs through these photos.  These cliffs are truly massive and quite impressive; a must see if you are in the Donegal area.  If you wish to hike to the summit and back, plan a whole day here as the journey will likely take you 6 hours round trip.

Slieve League Cliffs – Drone footage.

Slieve League Walk

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