Tag Archives: Wild Atlantic Way

Destination, Photography, Travel

SNEEM – COUNTY KERRY – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND #Prince

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Where were you when…

We have all heard that phrase uttered and it is usually associated with some memorable event.  I wasn’t anywhere when Kennedy was shot.  I wasn’t born yet.  For my generation, Generation X, our where were you when events are likely the Space Shuttle Challenger (1/28/1986, Prairie View Elementary, 6th Grade.  Principle Celt came into our room and told us the news) and 911 (9/11/01, Munson Printing; listening to the KQ Morning Show).  There was another event added to that list not quite a year ago today when Cyndie and I were traveling through Sneem…

Sneem – Blue Bull

Cyndie and I were on vacation driving around Ireland.  We had just had an early dinner in at the Blue Bull in a small town called Sneem in County Kerry.  I was always fun to have a pint and listen to the locals converse with each other.  I  had the incredibly tasty Monkfish which was encased in a hashbrown of sorts.  Wonderful stuff.

Tragic News

Just like every other evening, we stopped at a filling station or store to pick up a refreshments for later.  We made it an evening tradition to have a Magners or Bulmers cider whilst relaxing at the B&B after a long day of traveling.  As luck would have it, there was such a store that had exactly what we were looking for just a wee bit down the way from the pub.  While in the Christians Foodstore I heard the news report from the television mounted to the wall.  I did a double-take as I wasn’t sure what I had just heard.   I look down at my feet where the newspapers were laid out; there it was in print:  Prince Dead at 57.  I remember exactly where I was when Prince died (4/21/2016).  I was in a convenience store in Ireland when I heard the tragic news.

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IVERAGH PENINSULA – COUNTY KERRY – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND #discoverireland

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The Road to Iveragh Peninsula

Our adventure continued as we made our Map - Killimer to Killarney, Iveraph Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, County Kerryway from Loop Head heading further South toward the Iveragh Peninsula and the Ring of Kerry in County Kerry.  We decided to save some travel time and take the ferry from Killimer to Tarbert instead of driving all the way around the bay through Shannon and Limerick.  Again, meeting our goal of steering clear of major metro areas.  The bypass of the Dingle Peninsula was intentional; instead we headed toward Killarney area where our next scheduled B&B was located.

West of Killarney on N72; just North of Beaufort is another remarkable stone arch bridge.  I never tired of these beautiful bridges.

Stone Arch Bridge

Hillcrest Farmhouse

Map - Killarney to Hillcrest Farmhouse, Iveraph Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, County KerryWe stayed at Hillcrest Farmhouse, Black Valley B&B for two nights.  This B&B was a perfect place to spend two days and explore area attractions such as Ring of Kerry, Ring of Reeks, The Black Valley, Killarney National Park and Dingle Peninsula.

You don’t just simply make a few quick turns on the main road and arrive at Hillcrest Farmhouse.  At least that is not the case when coming from the Northside.  You path goes right through The Gap of Dunloe.    The Gap of Dunloe is a lovely mountain pass. The pass is located between Macgillycuddy’s Reeks (west) and Purple Mountain (east) in County Kerry, Ireland. It is about 11 km (6.8 mi) from north to south.

road signsOnce through the gap, you enter The Black Valley.  The views are something to see.  Once in the valley our B&B was a short distance away.  Most areas of Ireland are very well marked with signs.  From the B&B sign, it was a single lane road around a small bend.  You can see where the Purple Mountains get their name from, the rock here had a definite purple hue to it.Purple rocks

As if appearing out of nowhere; nestled in among the hillside was our home for the next two nights.Hillcrest Farmhouse, Black Valley B&B

 

Once we checked in and got settled into our room we explored the valley a bit and set out to find some dinner on the Ring of Kerry in town named Sneem.

The second highest peak on the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks range

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KILKEE & LOOP HEAD – COUNTY CLARE – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

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The road to Kilkee & Loop Head

On our eighth day we awoke again to another delicious Irish Breakfast at Sea Crest Farmhouse.  Angela Morrissey was a wonderful host.  The view from the farmhouse was wide open from its elevated position a short distance inland; Southeast from Quilty on the coast.

Google Maps

Traveling South from Quilty on N67 we crossed the Doonberg River via a stone arch bridge in Doonberg.  This was the first opportunity to stop, get out, and begin to burn some calories from breakfast; a mere 15 minutes from departing our B&B.  Photo opportunities are everywhere in Ireland.  There were a lovely pair of swans a swimming in the river when we arrived.

Kilkee

Kilkee, Loop Head’s main town, is built around a horseshoe bay with a kilometre of golden, blue-flag beach. Because of the Duggerna Reef (locally known as the Pollock Holes) stretching across its mouth, the bay is naturally sheltered from the Atlantic, and Kilkee beach is the safest in Clare.  Read more
–www.loophead.ie

Loop Head

Loop Head peninsula, has the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Shannon Estuary on the other, with barely a mile of land saving it from island status. – wikipedia

Bishop’s Island

The 6th century monastic settlement on Bishop’s Island gives the island its name. This unique seastack was separated from the mainland over the last thousand years.

Kilkee Cliffs

Bridges of Ross

The Bridges of Ross are located on the western side of Ross Bay near the village of Kilbaha.  Originally there were 3 sea stacks but only one remains.  You cannot see it from the road; it is a short walk from the car park.  The coastal views are spectacular.

Loop Head Peninsula Time Lapse

Loop Head Peninsula

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CLIFFS OF MOHER – COUNTY CLARE – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

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The Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher, as noted by EMGN.com, are as one of the 12 most deadly tourist hot spots on the planet (#7) .  Their claim of no protection to prevent people from going over the edge isn’t completely accurate.  There is fencing now, however there had not been in the past.  The only way you’ll fall over the edge these days is if you are trying to or not being safe and adhering to posted warnings. One does not have to search far to read stories about such tragedy.

Tragedy happens at the Grand Canyon in the USA as well.  There is a book written by Thomas M. Meyers Over The Edge: Death in Grand Canyon, that documents every death in the Grand Canyon breaking down the casualties into categories.  I believe this is the book a friend told me about where it explains some sort of phenomena about becoming so overcome with awe at what you are seeing that you essentially pass out and fall over.  Not something you should do at the Grand Canyon or the Cliffs of Moher.

The Cliffs of Moher are truly a sight to Map of Cliffs of Moher areabehold.  My wife and I experienced plenty of awe that April evening.  With the visitor center closed there were not many people around.  All the tour buses had gone.  There were plenty of cars in the parking lot though and I didn’t even give that a second thought.

I wished I had researched the place better and known the exact spots where photographs are typically taken from.  This isn’t a place where you want to sprint to a place to catch the great light.  We did manage a lengthy hike; first to O’Brian’s Tower (orange), and then back South along Burren Way (red).

O’Brian’s Tower

The Cliffs

We were fortunate to have favorable weather and only a slight breeze.  Burren Way is a paved path around the visitor center and to O’Brian’s Tower, but not out along the cliff.  There is a pretty clear transition point where the path turns to hard packed dirt and/or crushed rock.  this is where you warning become even more prevalent. You are given notice that you are leaving the Cliffs of Moher grounds.  You notified of the extreme danger ahead.

advised of the extreme danger ahead

To offer a sense of scale, you can see a full-grown adult standing on top of the cliffs on the upper right in the image below.  Inconceivable! (*Cliffs of Insanity below)

Cliffs of Moher

*The Princess Bride (1987) (as the filming location for “The Cliffs of Insanity”)

 More photos of the cliffs

The Cliffs of Moher (Irish: Aillte an Mhothair) are located at the southwestern edge of the Burren region in County Clare, Ireland. They rise 120 metres (390 ft) above the Atlantic Ocean at Hag’s Head, and, eight kilometres to the north, reach their maximum height of 214 metres (702 ft) just north of O’Brien’s Tower, which is a round stone tower near the midpoint of the cliffs that was built in 1835 by Sir Cornelius O’Brien.  – wikipedia

If sea cliffs are your thing, I would also recommend a trip to Slieve League.

Extra

Documentary (28 minutes)

Drone Footage

Cliffs of Moher Walk

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ROAD TO CLIFFS OF MOHER – COUNTY CLARE – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

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Road to Cliffs of Moher

We had another full day of travel.  After leaving Ballynahinch we drove back through Clifden and checked out the shops.  I was surprised to find Wrangle jeans for sale.  “Rain Ready” the tag read; for €79.95 ($85)!

White Strand

We meandered along the coastline and stopped at White Strand.  Although not far into our journey for the day, it was a great place to stop and stretch your legs; shrug off some of the gluttony from breakfast.   It appeared to be low tide and the vegetation and sand of the beach was ripe for exploration.  The most interesting thing I saw on the beach was the casts of blow lug worms.

Just south of Kilfea on R340 we came across some friendly critters.  Several donkeys were grazing to their heart’s content on tender greens along the roadside.   Photo opportunity!

We did very well with avoiding major cities throughout our travels by sticking to side roads, but there was no going around Galway; no way that wouldn’t add several hours to our travels.  It wasn’t long and we were out along the coast again.  We were, again, hoping for the sunset to cooperate at the Cliffs of Moher.  We arrived in the general vicinity early to look for a B&B as we didn’t make any previous  plans.  We easily found Sea Crest Farmhouse B&B close by and stopped by to take a look.  Satisfied and booked for an evening slumber, we unloaded the car and then departed for our late afternoon/evening adventure.  First up, dinner.

Vaughans Anchor Inn

It was invaluable having portable WiFi at all times.  It was a sinch to read reviews on restaurants.  We chose Vaughans Anchor Inn in Liscannor.  I always looked forward to a pint of Guinness after a long day of traveling.  You can see from the smile on my lovely wife’s face she did as well.  I really enjoyed that Ireland was all about the bread.  We had quite a few different varieties.  My inner-gourmand was very delighted.  The chef brought out a sample of his parsnip puree; it was divine.  Vaughn’s Fish and Chips consisted of Cod in a 9 year old (starter) batter,  Chips steamed then fried in Beef Drippings with Homemade Tartar Sauce and Pea Puree.  Wow!  Heart-healthy eating at its finest 🙂  One of the best fish and chips I experienced on our trip.

Next up…the Cliffs of Moher.

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CLIFDEN – COUNTY GALWAY – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

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Clifden & the Sky Road

Clifden

This was one of my favorite areas in Ireland along the Wild Atlantic Way.  The Sky Road loop leading West out of Clifden is pretty spectacular.  Part way around the loop is car park where Cyndie and I did a sunset shoot (red line).  The views to the South looking out over Clifden Bay was pretty amazing.  We did not make the trip around the entire Sky Road (orange line) as the sun had set and there would have been no views to behold.

We spent a fair amount of time at the car park watching the sunset take shape.  As we stood there we noticed movement up on the hill to our right.  It appeared as though the cow came out to take in the sunset; not long after the first cow showed up, another joined as well.

The Photographer’s Ehemeris

In case you are not aware, there is a wonderful online tool to aid with sunrises and sunsets.  I’ve used The Photographer’s Ehemeris for some time now.  It is a great tool to scout locations you’ll be traveling to .

Sunset Progression

This was one of the most beautiful sunsets I have had the pleasure of capturing in quite a while.  The colors were amazing, the weather cooperated and there were clouds that pulled it all together nicely.  I really wish I would have shot a time-lapse progression that evening.  The following gallery has several images captured as the sun was setting that evening.

I ordered 35″x14″ panoramic floatmount print of this sunset from Artmill.  It is hanging in my office at work.  I see it every day; it never gets old.  

 

Extras – watch these videos.  It’s worth your time.

Embrace the Wild Atlantic Way of Life

Soundtrack of Embrace the Wild Atlantic Way of Life by Walking on Cars – check out their CD – Everything This Way

The Sky Road

This video will take you all the way around the Sky Road loop starting at the Northern point (orange line above) around to the car park/look out West of Clifden.

Soaring over the Wild Atlantic Way

Connemara Tour Guide, West of Ireland

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