Tag Archives: Black Valley

KILLARNEY NATIONAL PARK – COUNTY KERRY – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND #discoverireland

Killarney National Park

Killarney - Hillcrest Farmhouse Irish Breakfast
Hillcrest Farmhouse Irish Breakfast

Killarney National Park was just to the east of where we stayed in the Black Valley.  A section of the Ring of Kerry (N71) runs right through the park.  We had not explored it at all during our two night stay at Hillcrest Farmhouse, other than the sheep pastures that were just inside the park boundaries a short walk from our B&B.  On our 10th day in Ireland we woke up, readied ourselves for a long travel day, packed up the car and consumed another terrific Irish breakfast.

We visited the sheep one last time on our way out of the Black Valley.  They were quite entertaining each time we visited them.

Killarney National Park, near the town of Killarney, County Kerry, was the first national park in Ireland.  It was created when Muckross Estate was donated to the Irish Free State in 1932. The park has since been substantially expanded and encompasses over 25,425 acres of diverse ecology, including the Lakes of Killarney, oak and yew woodlands of international importance, and mountain peaks.  It has Ireland’s only native herd of red deer and the most extensive covering of native forest remaining in Ireland. – wikipedia

The park roads boasted some magnificent views.  One specific spot is so grand that  it was given a specific name: Ladies View.  Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting visited this spot during the royal visit in 1861.  There is a nice gift shop, cafe and bar for your convenience.  Great coffee.  This is where I found the best price on a wool zip up coat.

Ladies View

Just down the road a wee bit from Ladies View is a castle ruin and church.

As we drove through the park more, it became very clear that we could have spent another day in this area.  The scenery was wonderful.  Unfortunately, we had to move along and get closer to Dublin where we would fly back home in a few days.

More views of the park

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RING OF REEKS – COUNTY KERRY – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND #discoverireland

Ring of Reeks

There is another ring beside the Ring of Kerry.  Widely known for cycle tours, the Ring of Reeks boasts some outstanding beauty.  There are more official maps the outline the cycle route; the map below is my own account of the path we traveled.

Ring of Kerry & Ring of Reeks

Terrain

The roads in this area are very narrow, hilly and full of curves.  You are definitely off the beaten path here away from the coastal roads.  The scenery is amazing.

We happened upon a fox that was up to no good; the farmer dispatched it and hung it on a fence.  As we were traversing these roads we came upon a farmer working his dogs and baby sheep along the road from one pasture to another.  This was a welcome travel interruption and fun to watch.  There is so much to see; a wonderful surprise may just be down the road a wee bit further.

Molls Gap

Top Cross

Black & Bridial Valleys

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GAP OF DUNLOE, Part 2 – COUNTY KERRY – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND #discoverireland

The Gap of Dunloe

The Gap of Dunloe is truly a sight to see.  Motor car traffic is frowned upon; perhaps prohibited through the gap.  Although no one will likely stop you, you may get a sneer of two.  We didn’t really have much of a choice as our B&B was through the gap in the Black Valley.  Driving all the way around to the south wasn’t in our itinerary.  The road into the Black Valley from the south was far from a four-lane interstate too.  Avoiding motor car traffic through the gap between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. is probably a good idea as that seemed to be the busiest time for the horse and carts.

This is an extremely narrow road through the Gap of Dunloe weaves up through the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks mountains.  You can see a huge boulder alongside the road in the foreground of the photo below.  Look further down the road toward the center of photo and you’ll see a pair of boulders on either side of the road.  There are several sharp turns around boulders on this road.   Be careful, go slow, watch for walkers and yield to horse-drawn traps.

Drive through the Gap of Dunloe

Horse-drawn trap

The Gap of Dunloe has long been a popular tourist attraction. The road through it is narrow, winding and is difficult for motor vehicles. A popular form of transport for tourists is the horse-drawn trap, a cart where up to four occupants sit facing each other. The traps are guided by men from families that live in and around the Gap. These ponymen use a rotation system called the Turn which determines who takes the next customers. The Turn has been in existence since the 1920s and is passed down in the families to the next generation. – wikipedia

Trusting Generosity

We had just returned from the Ring of Kerry, looping around from the east and north arriving back at the town of Dunloe on the north side of the gap.  Knowing there are no dinner options close to our B&B in the Black Valley, we decided to eat at Kate Kearney’s Cottage.  Prior to dinner we walked around the area to look at the horses and carts.  It appeared that all of the cart drivers had quite for the evening.

We were approached by a man asking us if we’d like a ride through the gap.  This sounded like a fine idea.  One hitch.  We were nearing the end of our trip and were extremely low on cash.  Backstory – our ATM cards didn’t work and we neglected to bring much cash or acquire a pin number for a credit card.  The man quoted the price, €50.  We had it, but that would leave us with very little cash for the rest of the trip.  We needed to hold on to our cash as admission to certain attractions required cash.

I explained the situation to the driver, Paul, and he said “no problem; send me the money once you get back home.”  There were several “are you sure” statements uttered, to which his response was always, “no problem.”  With a nod and gentlemen’s agreement executed will a handshake we were soon on our way.

His horse, Lucy, was already resting in the pasture.  It didn’t take long for Paul to get everything rigged up and ready.  I highly recommend this mode of transport through the gap.  You will no doubt enjoy it as much as Cyndie and I did.

After the trip, we thanked Paul for the wonderful ride through the gap.  He recorded his details on a sheet of paper so we could compensate him upon our return to the states.  And so we did along with a handsome tip.  This is just another example of how wonderful the people of Ireland are.

Dinner

After the wonderful ride we were definitely ready to have dinner at Kate Kearney’s Cottage.  I decided to deviate from fish & chips since Banger’s & Mash was on the menu.  Delicious.

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Gap of Dunloe Tours

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