There is another ring beside the Ring of Kerry. Widely known for cycle tours, the Ring of Reeks boasts some outstanding beauty. There are more official maps the outline the cycle route; the map below is my own account of the path we traveled.
Terrain
The roads in this area are very narrow, hilly and full of curves. You are definitely off the beaten path here away from the coastal roads. The scenery is amazing.
We happened upon a fox that was up to no good; the farmer dispatched it and hung it on a fence. As we were traversing these roads we came upon a farmer working his dogs and baby sheep along the road from one pasture to another. This was a welcome travel interruption and fun to watch. There is so much to see; a wonderful surprise may just bedown the road a wee bit further.
Perched on the westernmost tip of Ireland — and Europe, for that matter, residents are fond of saying, “The next parish over is Boston.” – www.dingle-peninsula.ie
The Peninsula
The Dingle Peninsula is named after the town of Dingle. It is the northernmost of the major peninsulas in County Kerry. It ends beyond the town of Dingle at Dunmore Head, the westernmost point of Ireland and arguably Europe. – wikipedia
The Town
Dingle Town is on the south coast the peninsula. The landmass to the south of the town offers protection from the ravages of the Atlantic Ocean. The harbour is home to the Dingle fishing fleet. The town is one of the most visited in Ireland. Its narrow streets are dotted with fine fish restaurants, art galleries, craft shops selling local pottery, clothing made from hand weaved cloth, sculptured figurines, gold and silver jewellery. The town has a large number of pubs where nightly entertainment is available, in particular traditional Irish music where musicians can just wander in and join in the session.
– http://dingle-insight.com/
Even though we stayed in the area for two days, we didn’t spend much time on this peninsula. We made our way to Dingle Town after a loop around the Ring of Kerry. It is only a wee bit of a deviation from the ring to the north and west. The southern peninsula road (N86) boast some magnificent views. One noteworthy area is near Annascaul (photo below).
The town itself is very bright and cherry. The town centre was quite busy even in April. We parked at the waterfront and browsed the shops and harbor.
The Harbor
The Black Valley was more our speed. It wasn’t long and we were on our way back there, but not before stopping for a pint. We found Knightly’s Bar & Restaurant in Castlemaine. Pretty sure fish and chips happened at some point even though there exist no photographic evidence of the event.
Caherdaniel is a village in County Kerry, Ireland, on the Iveragh peninsula on the Ring of Kerry. It is on the southwestern side of the peninsula, facing onto Derrynane Bay. Derrynane House was the home of Irish politician and statesman, Daniel O’Connell. It is now an Irish National Monument and part of a 320-acre National Park.
Derrynane Beach is part of the national park and it is pretty amazing. A welcome stop along the way to take in some salty Irish air and stretch our legs. We were very lucky when visiting beaches in Ireland. We always seemed to arrive at low tide. The receding water made very interesting designs in the sand.
Skellig Islands
There are sightseeing trips to the Skellig Islands from Derrynane Harbour daily during the Summer season. We were a wee bit too early to take advantage of such excursions.
The last scene of Star Wars: The Force Awakens was shot on Skellig in July 2014. Additional filming took place there in September 2015. The remains of the Skellig Michael monastery appear in the film, representing an ancient Jedi temple.
-wikipedia
The Ring of Kerry is a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry, south-western Ireland. Clockwise from Killarney it follows the N71 to Kenmare, then the N70 around the Iveragh Peninsula to Killorglin – passing through Sneem, Waterville, Cahersiveen, and Glenbeigh – before returning to Killarney via the N72. – read more (wikipedia)
The Iveraph Peninsula
The Iveraph Peninsula is a very popular destination. The Ring of Kerry is one of the most beloved areas to visit in the Republic of Ireland. I highly recommend straying from the prescribed route a wee bit. We did not stray and we missed Kerry Cliffs, Foilhommerum Bay and Balycarbery Castle on the tip of the peninsula.
The Kerry Way
The peninsula is also home to The Kerry Way. The Kerry Way is a walkers’ version of the Ring of Kerry. It is a 113 mile long circular hiking train the begins and ends in Killarney. It typically takes 9 days to complete. What an adventure that has to be. As you can see on the map below, there are B&B’s all along the way. You can make arrangements to have your luggage delivered to specific B&B’s at scheduled times so you need only carry day packs while walking. [link to interactive map]
Traveling the ring
We visited The Ring of Kerry in April well ahead of the peak tourist season. There was still plenty of traffic; I can only imagine how crazy it gets during the peak summer months. There is no debating it’s beauty and no wonder about why it is such a popular place. This was the most “touristy” area we traveled through in Ireland. Our goal was to avoid big cities and touristy areas. We made an exception for this area. If you are in the area, you must take the time and at least drive the loop. The sites to stop at are many and the views grand. The map below illustrates the locations of the photos that follow.
The Gap of Dunloe is truly a sight to see. Motor car traffic is frowned upon; perhaps prohibited through the gap. Although no one will likely stop you, you may get a sneer of two. We didn’t really have much of a choice as our B&B was through the gap in the Black Valley. Driving all the way around to the south wasn’t in our itinerary. The road into the Black Valley from the south was far from a four-lane interstate too. Avoiding motor car traffic through the gap between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. is probably a good idea as that seemed to be the busiest time for the horse and carts.
This is an extremely narrow road through the Gap of Dunloe weaves up through the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks mountains. You can see a huge boulder alongside the road in the foreground of the photo below. Look further down the road toward the center of photo and you’ll see a pair of boulders on either side of the road. There are several sharp turns around boulders on this road. Be careful, go slow, watch for walkers and yield to horse-drawn traps.
Drive through the Gap of Dunloe
Horse-drawn trap
The Gap of Dunloe has long been a popular tourist attraction. The road through it is narrow, winding and is difficult for motor vehicles. A popular form of transport for tourists is the horse-drawn trap, a cart where up to four occupants sit facing each other. The traps are guided by men from families that live in and around the Gap. These ponymen use a rotation system called the Turn which determines who takes the next customers. The Turn has been in existence since the 1920s and is passed down in the families to the next generation. – wikipedia
Trusting Generosity
We had just returned from the Ring of Kerry, looping around from the east and north arriving back at the town of Dunloe on the north side of the gap. Knowing there are no dinner options close to our B&B in the Black Valley, we decided to eat at Kate Kearney’s Cottage. Prior to dinner we walked around the area to look at the horses and carts. It appeared that all of the cart drivers had quite for the evening.
We were approached by a man asking us if we’d like a ride through the gap. This sounded like a fine idea. One hitch. We were nearing the end of our trip and were extremely low on cash. Backstory – our ATM cards didn’t work and we neglected to bring much cash or acquire a pin number for a credit card. The man quoted the price, €50. We had it, but that would leave us with very little cash for the rest of the trip. We needed to hold on to our cash as admission to certain attractions required cash.
I explained the situation to the driver, Paul, and he said “no problem; send me the money once you get back home.” There were several “are you sure” statements uttered, to which his response was always, “no problem.” With a nod and gentlemen’s agreement executed will a handshake we were soon on our way.
His horse, Lucy, was already resting in the pasture. It didn’t take long for Paul to get everything rigged up and ready. I highly recommend this mode of transport through the gap. You will no doubt enjoy it as much as Cyndie and I did.
After the trip, we thanked Paul for the wonderful ride through the gap. He recorded his details on a sheet of paper so we could compensate him upon our return to the states. And so we did along with a handsome tip. This is just another example of how wonderful the people of Ireland are.
Dinner
After the wonderful ride we were definitely ready to have dinner at Kate Kearney’s Cottage. I decided to deviate from fish & chips since Banger’s & Mash was on the menu. Delicious.
The Gap of Dunloe in an absolute jewel of the Emerald Isle. Traversing the gap via motor car is frowned upon and perhaps even prohibited from what I’ve gathered. Prohibited, that is, unless your B&B lies on the other side of the gap in the Black Valley. A wee bit of a loophole we took full advantage of. The road all the way around to the south was long, winding and just a time-intensive. Traveling through the gap takes a bit of patience as the road is narrow and there are horses with carts running back and forth and there is typically people hiking about as well.
Photos of the Gap of Dunloe
In total, I think we made a half-dozen trips through the gap at different times of the day.
The Wishing Bridge
There are five lakes within the Gap of Dunloe. Coosaun Lough, Black Lake, Cushnavally Lake, Auger Lake, and Black Lough; all connected by the River Loe. Between the first two lakes is an old arch bridge called the Wishing Bridge. Locals claim that wishes made while upon it are destined to come true.
If visiting County Kerry in the Republic of Ireland, be sure that the Black Valley is on your list of destinations. It is a short deviation, in distance, from the Ring of Kerry. The roads in and out of the valley are narrow and full of curves. It takes a wee bit of effort to get in and out of the valley, but it is time well spent. The scenery is quite amazing.
The Views
After traversing the Gap of Dunloe, the lovely view of the Black Valley is exposed. You can see the highest peak (Carrantoohil) and the 4th highest peak (Cnoc na Peiste) of the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks towering over the valley in the distance.
Here are few more images taken in the Black Valley
The Sheep
Breakfast @ B&B
Our choice of Hillcrest Farmhouse B&B was perfect for our travels in and around the Black Valley. Just down the road were multiple pastures full of sheep. We spent a fair bit of time photographing and rolling video of these vocal beasts. The baby sheep were so inquisitive and the parents watchful. The markings on each sheep were as unique as each individual’s baa.
We were was not expecting all the gates to be open and all the sheep running around wild and free. Thankfully we were never charge or mauled; they were quite well-behaved. It was a spectacular site to see and experience. This was a top memory of our visit to Ireland. We visited this area both days we were here.
We have all heard that phrase uttered and it is usually associated with some memorable event. I wasn’t anywhere when Kennedy was shot. I wasn’t born yet. For my generation, Generation X, our where were you when events are likely the Space Shuttle Challenger (1/28/1986, Prairie View Elementary, 6th Grade. Principle Celt came into our room and told us the news) and 911 (9/11/01, Munson Printing; listening to the KQ Morning Show). There was another event added to that list not quite a year ago today when Cyndie and I were traveling through Sneem…
Sneem – Blue Bull
Cyndie and I were on vacation driving around Ireland. We had just had an early dinner in at the Blue Bull in a small town called Sneem in County Kerry. I was always fun to have a pint and listen to the locals converse with each other. I had the incredibly tasty Monkfish which was encased in a hashbrown of sorts. Wonderful stuff.
Tragic News
Just like every other evening, we stopped at a filling station or store to pick up a refreshments for later. We made it an evening tradition to have a Magners or Bulmers cider whilst relaxing at the B&B after a long day of traveling. As luck would have it, there was such a store that had exactly what we were looking for just a wee bit down the way from the pub. While in the Christians Foodstore I heard the news report from the television mounted to the wall. I did a double-take as I wasn’t sure what I had just heard. I look down at my feet where the newspapers were laid out; there it was in print: Prince Dead at 57. I remember exactly where I was when Prince died (4/21/2016). I was in a convenience store in Ireland when I heard the tragic news.
Our adventure continued as we made our way from Loop Head heading further South toward the Iveragh Peninsula and the Ring of Kerry in County Kerry. We decided to save some travel time and take the ferry from Killimer to Tarbert instead of driving all the way around the bay through Shannon and Limerick. Again, meeting our goal of steering clear of major metro areas. The bypass of the Dingle Peninsula was intentional; instead we headed toward Killarney area where our next scheduled B&B was located.
West of Killarney on N72; just North of Beaufort is another remarkable stone arch bridge. I never tired of these beautiful bridges.
You don’t just simply make a few quick turns on the main road and arrive at Hillcrest Farmhouse. At least that is not the case when coming from the Northside. You path goes right through The Gap of Dunloe. The Gap of Dunloe is a lovely mountain pass. The pass is located between Macgillycuddy’s Reeks (west) and Purple Mountain (east) in County Kerry, Ireland. It is about 11 km (6.8 mi) from north to south.
Once through the gap, you enter The Black Valley. The views are something to see. Once in the valley our B&B was a short distance away. Most areas of Ireland are very well marked with signs. From the B&B sign, it was a single lane road around a small bend. You can see where the Purple Mountains get their name from, the rock here had a definite purple hue to it.
As if appearing out of nowhere; nestled in among the hillside was our home for the next two nights.
Once we checked in and got settled into our room we explored the valley a bit and set out to find some dinner on the Ring of Kerry in town named Sneem.
The second highest peak on the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks range
The Cliffs of Moher, as noted by EMGN.com, are as one of the 12 most deadly tourist hot spots on the planet (#7) . Their claim of no protection to prevent people from going over the edge isn’t completely accurate. There is fencing now, however there had not been in the past. The only way you’ll fall over the edge these days is if you are trying to or not being safe and adhering to posted warnings. One does not have to search far to read stories about such tragedy.
Tragedy happens at the Grand Canyon in the USA as well. There is a book written by Thomas M. Meyers Over The Edge: Death in Grand Canyon, that documents every death in the Grand Canyon breaking down the casualties into categories. I believe this is the book a friend told me about where it explains some sort of phenomena about becoming so overcome with awe at what you are seeing that you essentially pass out and fall over. Not something you should do at the Grand Canyon or the Cliffs of Moher.
The Cliffs of Moher are truly a sight to behold. My wife and I experienced plenty of awe that April evening. With the visitor center closed there were not many people around. All the tour buses had gone. There were plenty of cars in the parking lot though and I didn’t even give that a second thought.
I wished I had researched the place better and known the exact spots where photographs are typically taken from. This isn’t a place where you want to sprint to a place to catch the great light. We did manage a lengthy hike; first to O’Brian’s Tower (orange), and then back South along Burren Way (red).
O’Brian’s Tower
The Cliffs
We were fortunate to have favorable weather and only a slight breeze. Burren Way is a paved path around the visitor center and to O’Brian’s Tower, but not out along the cliff. There is a pretty clear transition point where the path turns to hard packed dirt and/or crushed rock. this is where you warning become even more prevalent. You are given notice that you are leaving the Cliffs of Moher grounds. You notified of the extreme danger ahead.
To offer a sense of scale, you can see a full-grown adult standing on top of the cliffs on the upper right in the image below. Inconceivable! (*Cliffs of Insanity below)
*The Princess Bride (1987) (as the filming location for “The Cliffs of Insanity”)
More photos of the cliffs
The Cliffs of Moher (Irish: Aillte an Mhothair) are located at the southwestern edge of the Burren region in County Clare, Ireland. They rise 120 metres (390 ft) above the Atlantic Ocean at Hag’s Head, and, eight kilometres to the north, reach their maximum height of 214 metres (702 ft) just north of O’Brien’s Tower, which is a round stone tower near the midpoint of the cliffs that was built in 1835 by Sir Cornelius O’Brien. – wikipedia
If sea cliffs are your thing, I would also recommend a trip to Slieve League.
