Tag Archives: #Ireland

IVERAGH PENINSULA – COUNTY KERRY – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND #discoverireland

Image April 20, 2017 Dan Traun

The Road to Iveragh Peninsula

Our adventure continued as we made our way from Loop Head heading further South toward the Iveragh Peninsula and the Ring of Kerry in County Kerry. We decided to save some travel time and take the ferry from Killimer to Tarbert instead of driving all the way around the bay through Shannon and Limerick. Again, meeting our goal of steering clear of major metro areas. The bypass of the Dingle Peninsula was intentional; instead we headed toward Killarney area where our next scheduled B&B was located.

West of Killarney on N72; just North of Beaufort is another remarkable stone arch bridge. I never tired of these beautiful bridges.

Hillcrest Farmhouse

We stayed at Hillcrest Farmhouse, Black Valley B&B for two nights. This B&B was a perfect place to spend two days and explore area attractions such as Ring of Kerry, Ring of Reeks, The Black Valley, Killarney National Park and Dingle Peninsula.

You don’t just simply make a few quick turns on the main road and arrive at Hillcrest Farmhouse. At least that is not the case when coming from the Northside. You path goes right through The Gap of Dunloe. The Gap of Dunloe is a lovely mountain pass. The pass is located between Macgillycuddy’s Reeks (west) and Purple Mountain (east) in County Kerry, Ireland. It is about 11 km (6.8 mi) from north to south.

Once through the gap, you enter The Black Valley. The views are something to see. Once in the valley our B&B was a short distance away. Most areas of Ireland are very well marked with signs. From the B&B sign, it was a single lane road around a small bend. You can see where the Purple Mountains get their name from, the rock here had a definite purple hue to it.

As if appearing out of nowhere; nestled in among the hillside was our home for the next two nights.

Once we checked in and got settled into our room we explored the valley a bit and set out to find some dinner on the Ring of Kerry in town named Sneem.

The second highest peak on the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks range

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KILKEE & LOOP HEAD – COUNTY CLARE – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

Image April 16, 2017 Dan Traun 1 Comment

The road to Kilkee & Loop Head

On our eighth day we awoke again to another delicious Irish Breakfast at Sea Crest Farmhouse. Angela Morrissey was a wonderful host. The view from the farmhouse was wide open from its elevated position a short distance inland; Southeast from Quilty on the coast.

Traveling South from Quilty on N67 we crossed the Doonberg River via a stone arch bridge in Doonberg. This was the first opportunity to stop, get out, and begin to burn some calories from breakfast; a mere 15 minutes from departing our B&B. Photo opportunities are everywhere in Ireland. There were a lovely pair of swans a swimming in the river when we arrived.

Kilkee

Kilkee, Loop Head’s main town, is built around a horseshoe bay with a kilometre of golden, blue-flag beach. Because of the Duggerna Reef (locally known as the Pollock Holes) stretching across its mouth, the bay is naturally sheltered from the Atlantic, and Kilkee beach is the safest in Clare. Read more
–www.loophead.ie

Loop Head

Loop Head peninsula, has the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Shannon Estuary on the other, with barely a mile of land saving it from island status. – wikipedia

Bishop’s Island

The 6th century monastic settlement on Bishop’s Island gives the island its name. This unique seastack was separated from the mainland over the last thousand years.

Kilkee Cliffs

Bridges of Ross

The Bridges of Ross are located on the western side of Ross Bay near the village of Kilbaha. Originally there were 3 sea stacks but only one remains. You cannot see it from the road; it is a short walk from the car park. The coastal views are spectacular.

Loop Head Peninsula Time Lapse

Loop Head Peninsula

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CLIFFS OF MOHER – COUNTY CLARE – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

Image April 15, 2017 Dan Traun 1 Comment

The Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher, as noted by EMGN.com, are as one of the 12 most deadly tourist hot spots on the planet (#7) . Their claim of no protection to prevent people from going over the edge isn’t completely accurate. There is fencing now, however there had not been in the past. The only way you’ll fall over the edge these days is if you are trying to or not being safe and adhering to posted warnings. One does not have to search far to read stories about such tragedy.

Tragedy happens at the Grand Canyon in the USA as well. There is a book written by Thomas M. Meyers Over The Edge: Death in Grand Canyon, that documents every death in the Grand Canyon breaking down the casualties into categories. I believe this is the book a friend told me about where it explains some sort of phenomena about becoming so overcome with awe at what you are seeing that you essentially pass out and fall over. Not something you should do at the Grand Canyon or the Cliffs of Moher.

The Cliffs of Moher are truly a sight to behold. My wife and I experienced plenty of awe that April evening. With the visitor center closed there were not many people around. All the tour buses had gone. There were plenty of cars in the parking lot though and I didn’t even give that a second thought.

I wished I had researched the place better and known the exact spots where photographs are typically taken from. This isn’t a place where you want to sprint to a place to catch the great light. We did manage a lengthy hike; first to O’Brian’s Tower (orange), and then back South along Burren Way (red).

O’Brian’s Tower

The Cliffs

We were fortunate to have favorable weather and only a slight breeze. Burren Way is a paved path around the visitor center and to O’Brian’s Tower, but not out along the cliff. There is a pretty clear transition point where the path turns to hard packed dirt and/or crushed rock. this is where you warning become even more prevalent. You are given notice that you are leaving the Cliffs of Moher grounds. You notified of the extreme danger ahead.

To offer a sense of scale, you can see a full-grown adult standing on top of the cliffs on the upper right in the image below. Inconceivable! (*Cliffs of Insanity below)

*The Princess Bride (1987) (as the filming location for “The Cliffs of Insanity”)

More photos of the cliffs

The Cliffs of Moher (Irish: Aillte an Mhothair) are located at the southwestern edge of the Burren region in County Clare, Ireland. They rise 120 metres (390 ft) above the Atlantic Ocean at Hag’s Head, and, eight kilometres to the north, reach their maximum height of 214 metres (702 ft) just north of O’Brien’s Tower, which is a round stone tower near the midpoint of the cliffs that was built in 1835 by Sir Cornelius O’Brien. – wikipedia

If sea cliffs are your thing, I would also recommend a trip to Slieve League.

Extra

Documentary (28 minutes)

Drone Footage

Cliffs of Moher Walk

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ROAD TO CLIFFS OF MOHER – COUNTY CLARE – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

Image April 14, 2017 Dan Traun 1 Comment

Road to Cliffs of Moher

We had another full day of travel. After leaving Ballynahinch we drove back through Clifden and checked out the shops. I was surprised to find Wrangle jeans for sale. “Rain Ready” the tag read; for €79.95 ($85)!

White Strand

We meandered along the coastline and stopped at White Strand. Although not far into our journey for the day, it was a great place to stop and stretch your legs; shrug off some of the gluttony from breakfast. It appeared to be low tide and the vegetation and sand of the beach was ripe for exploration. The most interesting thing I saw on the beach was the casts of blow lug worms.

Just south of Kilfea on R340 we came across some friendly critters. Several donkeys were grazing to their heart’s content on tender greens along the roadside. Photo opportunity!

We did very well with avoiding major cities throughout our travels by sticking to side roads, but there was no going around Galway; no way that wouldn’t add several hours to our travels. It wasn’t long and we were out along the coast again. We were, again, hoping for the sunset to cooperate at the Cliffs of Moher. We arrived in the general vicinity early to look for a B&B as we didn’t make any previous plans. We easily found Sea Crest Farmhouse B&B close by and stopped by to take a look. Satisfied and booked for an evening slumber, we unloaded the car and then departed for our late afternoon/evening adventure. First up, dinner.

Vaughans Anchor Inn

It was invaluable having portable WiFi at all times. It was a sinch to read reviews on restaurants. We chose Vaughans Anchor Inn in Liscannor. I always looked forward to a pint of Guinness after a long day of traveling. You can see from the smile on my lovely wife’s face she did as well. I really enjoyed that Ireland was all about the bread. We had quite a few different varieties. My inner-gourmand was very delighted. The chef brought out a sample of his parsnip puree; it was divine. Vaughn’s Fish and Chips consisted of Cod in a 9 year old (starter) batter, Chips steamed then fried in Beef Drippings with Homemade Tartar Sauce and Pea Puree. Wow! Heart-healthy eating at its finest 🙂 One of the best fish and chips I experienced on our trip.

Next up…the Cliffs of Moher.

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BALLYNAHINCH CASTLE – COUNTY GALWAY – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

Image April 12, 2017 Dan Traun 5 Comments

Ballynahinch Castle

After taking in a spectacular Clifden Sky Road sunset, it was time to close out day 6 of our Ireland adventure. We decided to switch up our B&B stays for one night and made arrangement to stay at Ballynahinch Castle Hotel.

Beautifully situated on the Owenmore river in the heart of Connemara, this former fishing and shooting lodge which once belonged to an Indian prince is completely authentic and unspoiled. Beloved of generations who know a good thing when they find it. True to its origins, visitors come from all over the world to fly fish on one of the 8 beats along the river or shoot game in the mixed woodland, set against the stunning backdrop of the Twelve Bens mountains. Indeed game figures often on the menu, with delicious pheasant, wrapped in pastry, melt in the mouth venison, fresh salmon of course, scallops and lobster from the coast at Roundstone, just a few miles away. – read more | Ireland’s Hidden Gems

This originally modest sized country house grew considerably in size over the years to what it is today. This 450 acres of pristine land is surrounded by woods and lakes with the Owenmore River running through the property. I can only imagine what a thrill it would be to fly fish here.

Walking into the main building you could feel the over 600 years of history oozing from the rich and dark wood of its interior.

We were very tired from our day of travel and seeing many greats sites such as Aughnanure Castle, Friary of Ross Errilly, Cong, Roundstone and Clifden. I am certain we were actively doing something 14-16 hours per day every day. There is so much to experience in Ireland. Today, day 6; halfway through our trip I think we were feeling it. We were glad to get back to Ballynahinch and to our comfortable room. We woke up early to explore the grounds and paths before breakfast. It was a lovely morning with a very nice sunrise. The weather was mild and the scenery inviting.

The food at Ballynahinch was insanely good. We only had breakfast, but wow! It was an amazing breakfast! Move over Traditional Irish Breakfast. It was all of that and more. There was a tremendous buffet. The video below gives you a glimpse of breakfast at Ballynahinch. Needless to say I walked away from the table completely satisfied (stuffed) and ready for another full day of travel on our way to the Cliffs of Moher.

Ballynahinch Castle Hotel – A Manor House Hotel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvB3Aue_7Bs

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CLIFDEN – COUNTY GALWAY – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

Image April 12, 2017 Dan Traun 7 Comments

Clifden & the Sky Road

Clifden

This was one of my favorite areas in Ireland along the Wild Atlantic Way. The Sky Road loop leading West out of Clifden is pretty spectacular. Part way around the loop is car park where Cyndie and I did a sunset shoot (red line). The views to the South looking out over Clifden Bay was pretty amazing. We did not make the trip around the entire Sky Road (orange line) as the sun had set and there would have been no views to behold.

We spent a fair amount of time at the car park watching the sunset take shape. As we stood there we noticed movement up on the hill to our right. It appeared as though the cow came out to take in the sunset; not long after the first cow showed up, another joined as well.

The Photographer’s Ehemeris

In case you are not aware, there is a wonderful online tool to aid with sunrises and sunsets. I’ve used The Photographer’s Ehemeris for some time now. It is a great tool to scout locations you’ll be traveling to .

Sunset Progression

This was one of the most beautiful sunsets I have had the pleasure of capturing in quite a while. The colors were amazing, the weather cooperated and there were clouds that pulled it all together nicely. I really wish I would have shot a time-lapse progression that evening. The following gallery has several images captured as the sun was setting that evening.

I ordered 35″x14″ panoramic floatmount print of this sunset from Artmill. It is hanging in my office at work. I see it every day; it never gets old.

Extras – watch these videos. It’s worth your time.

Embrace the Wild Atlantic Way of Life

Soundtrack of Embrace the Wild Atlantic Way of Life by Walking on Cars – check out their CD – Everything This Way

The Sky Road

This video will take you all the way around the Sky Road loop starting at the Northern point (orange line above) around to the car park/look out West of Clifden.

Soaring over the Wild Atlantic Way

Connemara Tour Guide, West of Ireland

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ROUNDSTONE – COUNTY GALWAY – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND #discoverireland

Image April 11, 2017 Dan Traun 3 Comments

Cong to Maam Cross

Cong to Roundstone via Maam Cross is a beautiful drive through the Irish countryside. The smell of burning peat is unmistakable. We drove by several peat bogs being harvested around Maam Cross. From Galway in the South to Letterkenny in the North, there is what is known as the Atlantic Blanket Bog. There are several areas of Mountain Blanket Bog as well. Read more about blanket bogs – it is quite fascinating.

Maam Cross to Roundstone

We were making our way toward Clifden and the Skyroad for a sunset shoot; eventually ending up at Ballynahinch Castle Hotel for the evening.

There is a lovely stone bridge on R344 along Lough Inagh a wee bit East of Connemara National Park. Thankfully I took a photo with my iPhone and was able to track down where this bridge was along our path. Google maps is pretty spectacular; with street view, it’s almost like I am right back there standing on that very road.

Google Maps Street View

Here are photos of the bridge, mountains and unnamed stream

Roundstone

Today Roundstone is a popular holiday resort renowned among artists and naturalists for the remarkable beauty of the surrounding mountains and seascapes. It has a traditional craft centre and local activities include Connemara Pottery, Connemara Jewellery and Connemara Instrument making. Connemara Farming, Connemara Fishing, Connemara Forestry and Connemara Quarrying are carried out extensively in the area.

In Roundstone you will find a busy harbour where local fishermen prepare and return with the day’s catch, featuring a mix of Lobster, Crab, Shrimp, Mackerel, Cod plus a variety of other fish. The town itself boasts a good choice of Bars and Seafood Restaurants crammed full of locally caught seafood. -http://www.roundstone-connemara.com/

Photos of Roundstone

Fish & Chips @ O'Dawd's — Fish & Chips @ O’Dawd’s

Roundstone in a quiet fishing village on the surface. I believe we could have spent all day in this lively community. We had traveled all day and we were very hungry. We did have a wee bit of time to explore the harbor before having dinner at O’Dawd’s of Roundstone. You’ll find that the fish and chips are different almost every place you stop. I really enjoyed that.

Extra

Connemara Walking Guide

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CONG – COUNTY GALWAY – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

Image April 9, 2017 Dan Traun 3 Comments

The road to Cong

Our sixth day in Ireland was a full one; this post is just the half of it. We started off at Aughnanure Castle and drove part way around Lough Corbid to the Friary of Ross Errilly. We continued our loop around the lough to the North and arrived in Cong.

The 1111 Synod of Ráth Breasail included Cong (Cunga Féichin) among the five dioceses it approved for Connacht, but in 1152 the Synod of Kells excluded it from its list and assigned what would be its territory to the archdiocese of Tuam.^[2]^[3] No longer a residential bishopric, Cunga Féichin is today listed by the Catholic Church as a titular see.^[4]

Cong was also the home of Sir William Wilde, historian and father to prominent playwright, novelist, poet, and short story writer Oscar Wilde.

-Wikipedia

Cong Abbey

Founded in 623 AD by St. Feichin as a monastery this site was then chosen by Turlough Mor O’Conor, High King of Connacht and of Ireland, as the Royal Augustinian Abbey of Cong was built in 1120 AD for the Canons Regular of the Order of St. Augustine. The Royal Abbey of

Cong is one of the finest examples of early architecture in Ireland. Examples of the wonderful craftsmanship is still very much in evidence today with the Abbey’s Gothic windows, Romanesque doors and windows, clustered pillars, arches, standing columns and floral capitals.

Cong

Cong is like many other charming villages throughout Ireland. Colorful shops and pubs line the narrow streets.

Cong was the filming location for John Ford‘s 1952 Oscar-winning film, The Quiet Man,^[5]featuring John Wayne, Maureen O’Hara and Barry Fitzgerald. Much of the film was filmed on the grounds of Ashford Castle. The town and castle area remain little changed since 1952, and Cong’s connection with the movie make it a tourist attraction. (The film is still celebrated by the local “Quiet Man Fan Club”).

-Wikipedia

There is a pub so named – The Quiet Man Pub.

The Monk’s Fishing House

The grounds of the St Mary of the Rosary Catholic Church had several walking paths; one of which that lead to the Monk’s Fishing House. Built in the 15th or 16th century, on an island in the River Cong leading towards nearby Lough Corrib. The house was built on a platform of stones over a small arch which allows the river to flow underneath the floor. The trapdoor in the floor was likely used to keep fish fresh. According to local tradition, there was a line connected from the fishing house to the monastery kitchen to alert the cook to fresh fish.

The day was still young; we made our way West toward the next destination (& post), Roundstone.

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FRIARY OF ROSS ERRILLY – COUNTY GALWAY – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

Image April 8, 2017 Dan Traun 3 Comments

FRIARY OF ROSS ERRILLY

We stumbled on this little gem accidentally while driving a loop around Lough Corrib via Galway. Most of our itinerary was pre-scouted via Google Maps and other websites. I am very appreciative of those that have went before us and shared images so you at least have some idea of what to expect when you arrive. This is nice from not only a sightseeing perspective, but also a photographer perspective. I do enjoy a complete blind surprise such as this as well.

We saw the structure from the main road and wasted no time making our way toward it. This marvelous ruin is in near to the County Galway and County Mayo line near Headford. You need only wonder a wee bit from the friary to reach the banks of the Black River.

This site is touted as the most popular tourist attraction in the area. When we arrived we had the entire place to ourselves. While we were getting our cameras situated a local man came walking down the road and provided us with a wonder historical account of friary. He spoke of an unusual feature inside – a water tank to hold live fish from river until eaten.

The Ross Errilly Friary (Irish: Mainistir Ros Oirialaigh, often anglicised in 18th & 19th century sources as Rosserelly) is a medieval Franciscan friary located about a mile to the northwest of Headford, County Galway, Ireland. It is a National Monument of Ireland and among the best-preserved medieval monastic sites in the country. Though usually referred to by locals as “Ross Abbey,” this is not technically correct as the community never had an abbot.

The church and bell tower are to the south of a small but well preserved central cloister and domestic buildings are to the north. Amongst these are a kitchen (equipped with an oven and a water tank for live fish), a bake house, and a refectory or dining area. The dormitories are on the upper levels. One unusual feature is a second courtyard or cloister, built to accommodate the friary’s growing population. -Wikipedia

We spent a lot of time here; it is very easy to do. There is much to look at and lots to explore. The surrounding countryside is quite picturesque as well. It is easy to image the monks living here and farming the land.

Photos of the Friary of Ross exterior

Photos of the Friary of Ross interior

A portion of our walk through (dantraun.com)

Aerial View via YouTube (Colm Concannon)

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OUGHTERARD & AUGHNANURE CASTLE – COUNTY GALWAY – REPUBLIC OF IRELAND ‪#discoverireland

Image April 8, 2017 Dan Traun 2 Comments

OUGHTERARD

After a much-needed and restful night sleep at Corrib View Country House (just to the East of Oughterard on Lough Corrib) we sat down to another version of a Traditional Irish Breakfast. It was always different: 1 or 2 eggs; with or without white and/or black pudding. There was always ample tasty meat thought. The sausage was pretty consistent throughout our travels. It had a creamy texture and great flavor. At 10g fat per link I now know why. So good.

Just down the way a bit from our B&B was Aughnanure Castle. We stopped by the previous evening before checking into our B&B, but it was about to close. We instead went back to Oughterard to look around and get a bite to eat. The town center was very busy with foot traffic and patrons have a pint (or several). The streets were lined with shops – no strip mall style anything here. We located a nice pub with fish & chips easily. You can never go wrong with fish & chips. We were very tired from a full day of travel and sightseeing, but could not resist stopping by and old cemetery we drove by on the way into town.

AUGHNANURE CASTLE

Google Maps describes this site as a well-preserved Irish tower fortress with gargantuan fireplaces and a watchtower you can climb.

Built by the O’Flahertys c. 1500, Aughnanure Castle lies in picturesque surroundings close to the shores of Lough Corrib. In 1546 the O’Flaherty’s motto “Fortune favours the strong” and the powerful Mayo O’Malleys Motto “Powerful by land and by sea“, were joined in the marriage of Donal an Chogaidh O’Flaherty and Grainuaile/Grace O’Malley. Standing on what is virtually a rocky island, the castle is a particularly well-preserved example of an Irish tower house. In addition, visitors will find the remains of a banqueting hall, a watch tower, an unusual double bawn and bastions and a dry harbour.

–Heritage Ireland

I very much enjoyed visiting this castle as there were very few people milling about. The setting was beautiful with the lazy Drimneed River flowing by the outer stone walls on two sides. All structures such as these typically have an interesting feature known as a meurtrière at a main gateway to the premise to thwart attackers , but I’d never heard it described as a “Murder Hole” before. It is quite an accurate description really.

This one was relatively small; I am guessing as this whole site wasn’t large in comparison to some castles, but a murder hole nonetheless is was.

Here are some additional images of the interior.

Diagram of Aughnanure Castle c. 1500s – Oughterard Heritage

Back in the 1500s this site was a bit more formidable. Today most of the inner walls are gone while the outer walls remain intact. We were fortunate; during our visit in the morning there were very few people there which allowed for easy photographing.

Here are some photos of the grounds. The softer light the evening before was nicer (first two photos) than the bright sunshine of the next morning.